Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Throughout the whole length of the coast of Palestine from Tyre to Gaza,
only one deep indentation occurs. This is where it sweeps in a curve
around the old fortress of St. Jean d'Acre, and terminates in the
projecting precipice upon whose ledge the monastery of Carmel is
situated. The bay thus formed is nine miles across from Acre to Carmel,
and about four miles broad. It is bordered the whole distance by a
smooth, hard beach, at the southeastern and most sheltered extremity of
which is situated the town of Haifa, a modern native town, squeezed in
between an overhanging bluff, on which are the ruins of an old castle,
and the sea. It owes its origin to the arbitrary act of a pacha who,
about a century ago, had rendered himself quasi-independent of the
Porte, and established the seat of his government at Acre. The
population of old Haifa, situated near the point, having rebelled
against him, he punished them by razing it to the ground, and
transported the inhabitants to the edge of the bay under the rock, on
which he put a castle, while he surrounded them with a wall, thus
keeping them prisoners. When he died, his successor was suppressed, the
garrison of the castle was removed, and the wall was allowed to fall
into disrepair. The inhabitants, who thus were restored to liberty,
accustomed to their new location, began to cultivate the surrounding
land and to increase in wealth and prosperity. Their gardens spread to
the eastward, where the brook Kishon, winding through a fertile plain,
struggles to debouch into the sea, but only succeeds at certain seasons,
owing to the huge sand-bars which form at its month. These dam it back
into small lakes, which are surrounded by date-groves, thus forming a
most agreeable feature in the scenery. Behind the plain rises the low,
wooded range which is traversed by the road leading to Nazareth.
Though Haifa is comparatively modern, there are some traces of old ruins
in the town, the walls of an old crusading castle, one or two caverns,
which bear marks of having been inhabited in the rocks immediately
behind them, and the crumbling remains of an archway, dating, probably,
from a period anterior to the crusades. Prior to the arrival of the
colonists of the Temple Society, Haifa was as dirty as most Arab
villages. It is now well paved throughout. The houses, all constructed
of white limestone, quarries of which abound in the immediate vicinity,
give it a clean and substantial appearance, and contain a bustling and
thriving population of about six thousand inhabitants. Under the high
cactus hedges at its eastern gateway are usually to be seen, squatting
amid sacks of grain, hundreds of camels, which, attended by wild-looking
Arabs, have arrived with their loads of cereals from the Hauran, on the
other side of the Jordan; for Haifa is gradually becoming one of the
great grain-exporting ports of the country, and one or two steamers are
generally to be seen loading in the harbour.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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