Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The great events of which the plain of Jericho had in early times been
the scene, together with its traditional connection with the temptation
of Christ on the Mount, which rises abruptly behind the Spring of
Ain-es-Sultan, and actual interest with regard to his baptism in the
Jordan and other events, attracted the Christians of a very early age to
this part of the country. Hence from Justinian's time the plain began to
be covered with monastic edifices, and the gorges and precipices of the
enclosing mountains to be burrowed with hermit's caves and sacred
shrines and chapels.
There is a tendency, on the part especially of the Greek and Armenian
churches, to reoccupy some of these. Certainly of all the uncomfortable
and dreary and broiling monasteries I ever saw, that of Kusr Hajlah,
near the Dead Sea, now inhabited by half a dozen monks, claims
pre-eminence. It is placed just on the edge of the saline plain, which
exhales in summer a pungent heat that must render life almost
insupportable. Nevertheless, it bears all the marks of having been an
important mediæval monastery. The old walls still exist on three sides,
and measure about forty yards by sixty. These contained two chapels
above ground and one beneath in the vaults. The walls are still covered
with frescoes, the designs of which are distinctly visible, as well as
the inscriptions in Greek beneath them. They are evidently of Crusading
times. There is a large cistern here, thirty feet by ten and twenty-four
deep, which is in good preservation. So is another at the monastery of
El-Yahud, thirty feet deep, with piers and arches also almost perfect.
This monastery is distant about half an hour from the Jordan, and dates
from the twelfth century. It stands on the site of one which was called
the Monastery of St. John on the Jordan, but which was destroyed by an
earthquake. The interest attaching to these monasteries, however, is
comparatively slight. Upon archæological grounds they exhibit no very
striking features, while from a religious point of view they are
significant chiefly as showing how soon the religion of Christ became
degraded into a system of useless asceticism, and, considering the
tendency which is exhibited to return to it, the lamentable reflection
is forced upon one that the true spirit of Christianity is as little
understood now as it was in those days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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