Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The monks who inhabit these buildings are in one sense as interesting as
the buildings themselves, for one has only to converse with them to be
transported to the Middle Ages. They are probably the only class of men
who have remained absolutely unaffected by nineteenth-century
civilization or modes of thought. They are like the toads that have been
locked up for centuries in stone, and might in so far as their religious
views are concerned be the identical individuals who, in the time of the
crusaders, used to inhabit the cells they now occupy. From a
psychological point of view, then, it is curious to converse with them
on matters of faith and religion, for unless one has had personal
experience of the degree of ignorance and superstition which are still
to be found in a recluse of the Armenian Church, for instance, one could
not credit the fact that such a being exists; and still represents a
considerable class in the days in which we live.
The Arabs around Jericho are of a tribe called Abou Nuseir. They
venerate a place called “The Place of Sepulchre of Dawar.” This
personage was their ancestor, and the Abou Nuseir bury their dead in the
tombs of the Dawar people. Arabs of any other tribe passing this spot
make use of the expression, “Permission, oh, Dawar,” and the valley is
sacred, and ploughs, grain, and other articles are deposited here for
safety. The usual votive offerings—sticks, rags, bracelets—are found
near the tombs. This tribe is scattered about in tents among the thorny
bushes that cover the plain, amid which their flocks find good pasture.
They are reputed to have a bad character, but we made great friends with
them, owing to a circumstance which secured their gratitude.
While sitting by the fountain one afternoon we saw a number of Arabs
carrying a man on a litter. This excited our doctor's curiosity, and we
immediately hailed the procession. They told us they had a wounded man,
and we replied we had a doctor, and they waited till we came up. In
fact, an elderly man had just received a bullet in the leg from a friend
with whom he had had a quarrel, which splintered the bone a little below
the knee. The ball was still lodged in the leg. The doctor, who had made
five military campaigns, and had probably dressed as many gunshot wounds
as any man alive, was in his element. Instantly the man was taken to the
nearest tents, splints of bamboo and bandages of flour and the white of
an egg were speedily extemporized, while a large audience of
wild—looking men, women, children, and dogs crowded around to watch
operations.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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