Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
The operation turned out a more dizzy one than I had anticipated. No
guide was necessary, for we could see the track winding like a thread up
the face of the precipice. For the first three hundred feet or so it was
all plain sailing, but then the ledge became horribly narrow.
Occasionally the path was so steep that it dwindled into rock-cut steps.
A false step would have sent you thundering hundreds of feet down into
the abyss. At one place the height was so dizzy, the foothold so slight,
that my nerve, which for this sort of work is not what it once was,
began to give way, and I ignominiously squatted down, with my face
turned to the rock, and tried to steady myself by forgetting that six
inches behind me was a yawning chasm, from which a pebble might have
been dropped plumb to the bottom. Retreat was as bad as advance, and
more humiliating. For the rest of the way I went on my hands and knees,
to the amusement of my companion, whose brain was not similarly
affected. I don't know anything more disagreeable than the irresistible
impulse which overtakes one sometimes to pitch one's self headlong over
a precipice of this kind.
At last, to my inexpressible relief, I reached the mouth of a cave, into
which I sprawled, panting, with thankfulness, but oppressed nevertheless
with the horrible consciousness that I had the return voyage still to
make. However, I dismissed this painful consideration for the moment,
and applied myself to the examination of the curious grotto which we had
reached. It was a sort of ante-chamber to a tunnel in the rock, passing
through which we came upon some dreadful steps out on the face of the
rock; but here there was a slight, rickety balustrade of wood, and at
the top stood a greasy old monk, a sight which, under the circumstances,
produced a more soothing effect upon my mind than such a sight usually
does. This ecclesiastical worthy received us with gracious smiles, and
led us through another tunnel into a sort of vestibule, which opened
into a chapel which had been constructed at the mouth of a cave, so that
the front facing the precipice was of masonry. Looking out of the window
which had been constructed in this wall, a stone might have been dropped
at least five hundred feet without touching anything till it reached the
bottom. This chapel was gorgeously fitted up, thanks to the
contributions of pilgrims whose heads must have been steadier than mine
was. It had a handsomely decorated screen covered with sacred designs
richly gilt. The apse was six feet in diameter, and the total length
from the inside of the apse to the back of the cave about twenty-five
feet, the breadth being about twenty. A door led out of this chapel into
a narrow passage and up two or three steps into another cave, or niche,
where there was a figure of a saint.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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