Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
As far as I could understand from the monk, who spoke Greek, and very
bad Italian, somewhere here was the spot where Christ stood when he was
tempted. The walls of the chapel were covered with frescoes. The large,
cavernous vestibule was the dwelling-place of the monk, with whom was
associated a younger sort of acolyte, who lived in a cave overhead,
which was reached by a flight of stone-cut steps from the back of the
vestibule. There was also a small inner cave, fitted with a door, in
which they kept their stores. The old man told me he had lived here like
an eagle in an eyrie for ten years without even descending to the plain
below. I wondered how he kept his health without taking exercise. All
hermits who live on the sides of precipices should, I think, have
treadwheels of some kind fitted up for them, or rotating cages like
those in which Italian white mice take their exercise. I don't think our
old friend, however, led a very ascetic life, so far as eating and
drinking are concerned. He insisted on our staying to drink some
excellent coffee, after which he produced a bottle of very good mastic,
or spirit made from corn and flavored with anise-seed. I observed some
fresh green salad and cauliflower on his side-table, which the Arabs
bring him from their gardens at the foot of the hill. He had also an
abundant supply of good Arab bread. His water is supplied from a
cistern, of which there are several attached to the caves. He told me
that eight of these were at present inhabited, but most of them were
higher up. He was the spiritual superior of them all, and although there
was another chapel in ruins, his was the only one in which service was
performed. He invited me to continue my explorations to the caves higher
up, but my mind was so much occupied with thinking how I was to get down
as to exclude from it any idea of going higher up. Altogether this
hermit was a jolly, hospitable old fellow, and it would be as cruel to
pick him out of his hole and drop him into the busy world as it is to
pick a periwinkle out of his shell with a pin.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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