Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
We now crossed, for about three miles, a fine undulating country covered
with rich herbage, upon which large herds of cattle were feeding, and
followed most of the way an ancient cemented channel, about four feet
wide, which had formerly conveyed the waters of another stream to swell
those which had their origin at Ain Duk, and all of which were carried
over the aforementioned high level bridge. The stream which we were now
approaching was also surrounded by cultivated and irrigated land. The
whole of this plain in its richness and wealth of water far surpassed
anything my expectations had led me to anticipate. Near the base of the
mountains from which this fine stream issues are the remains of an
ancient fortress situated on a high mound or tell, called Khurbet el
Aujeh. The stream bears the same name. This is the sixth large stream
which I have counted gushing from these mountains in a distance of about
eight miles. My compass now told me that I must get up into the
mountains if I intended to strike the Jerusalem and Samaria road at the
point which I proposed. From information which I had taken before
starting I expected to find the track in question ascending the valley
from which the Aujeh issues, but we looked in vain for signs of any such
track. Indeed, on forcing our way up it a little distance, we found that
its precipitous sides closed in on us in a manner which effectually
barred all further progress. We were wondering what to do in our
dilemma, when, fortunately, we observed some peasants making some
irrigating channels, and from them, after much chaffering, we obtained a
guide. It is a singular thing that these poor peasantry, whose day's
labor in the fields cannot be worth more than ten cents to them, will
refuse fifty rather than leave what they are about and act as guides. On
this occasion it was with great difficulty that I bribed a man with a
dollar. To our surprise he took us straight to the base of an apparently
impracticable cliff and proceeded to climb up it. As my experience of
Palestine horses has convinced me that they can go almost wherever a man
can, provided you leave them to find their own way, we proceeded to
breast the limestone crags without misgiving, the only hardship being
that the day was hot and we had to climb them on foot. To scramble up a
thousand feet on a stretch by a path which was generally quite invisible
is no slight operation, and one which, in this instance, it would have
been impossible to perform without a guide, such impassable barriers did
the rocks seem to present until the guide showed us the way to
circumvent them. When we did reach what we fondly hoped was the summit,
it was only to find a barren, undulating wilderness stretching before
us, every now and then involving more climbing, for the elevation at
which we were destined to arrive before the end of our day's journey was
more than four thousand feet higher than the level from which we
started.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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