Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
If the scenery by which we now found ourselves surrounded was rugged, it
was wild and grand in the extreme. Gloomy and precipitous gorges
intersect these mountains in every direction. Not a sign of a habitation
is visible anywhere, and with the exception of a single goatherd we did
not meet a human being for hours. The vegetation was also very sparse,
relieved, however, by great quantities of the fragrant white broom in
flower, and cyclamen and scarlet anemones. Even in the days of the
ancients it must have been a barren, uncultivated tract, but I was
repaid for the scramble across it by one or two evidences of extreme
antiquity of the greatest interest. The first of these consisted of four
huge prostrate slabs of stone. They were evidently the blocks which had
once formed a dolmen that had been overturned. Now, the interest of this
lies in the fact that no dolmen, or signs of a dolmen, has ever yet been
discovered in Judea, though eagerly searched for. There is only one
doubtful one in Galilee, but they are abundant to the east of the
Jordan. The reason assigned for this is that the tribes to the east of
the Jordan did not obey the command, when they entered the land of
Canaan, to “overturn the tables of stone,” to destroy the Canaanitish
altars, and to break or smash their pillars; while the tribes to the
west, especially Judah and Benjamin, were very particular in this
regard.
Here, I think, is the only evidence which has yet been found in Judea of
this interesting fact. This region was apparently one much dedicated to
Baal worship. I saw many stone circles and one or two alignments of
large stones, but the most curious was an enclosure about twenty-four
yards square, formed of rough, unhewn stones, each weighing a ton or
more, piled to a height of two or three upon each other. In the centre
was a circle, eight feet in diameter, of large stones, with a single
stone in the middle of it. This was a monument which evidently existed
from pre-Judaic times; but, although I attempted hurriedly to take its
bearings, I am afraid that in that wilderness of stone I should never be
able to find it again.
We were pretty well worn out when we reached at last the village of
Mugheir, the first inhabited place we had seen since leaving our camp
near Jericho, and where we proposed to call a halt for the refreshment
of man and beast. Meantime, as our tents and baggage had been sent by
another road, we began to feel extremely doubtful as to when we should
ever see them again.
EXPLORATIONS IN PALESTINE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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