Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, Oct. 7.—The village of Mugheir, where we halted to rest after our
long and weary scramble from the Jordan valley, is one of the most
out-of-the-way places to be found in Palestine. It is not on the way
anywhere, but a sort of _Ultima Thule_—the last spot where ground fit
for cultivation is to be found. It stands on the margin of a charming
little plain, where there is a fine olive grove. Indeed, looking
westward, the prospect is cheery enough, but eastward it is wild rock,
black, gloomy gorges, or less precipitous but equally barren valleys.
The sheik received us with great cordiality, albeit quite unused to the
visits of travellers, and spread before us such fare as he could, flat
Arab bread, roasted eggs, curdled goat's milk, and figs, butter, and
honey. I mention the last three together because you eat them together.
You first dip your dried fig into the butter, you then dip it into the
honey, and then put it into your mouth. I never tried the combination
before, but it is not bad. He also gave us a hot compound of flour and
sugar boiled together, which he seemed to think a great deal of, but,
beyond being sweet and sticky, it had no especial merit. His wife was
the fairest woman I ever saw for a pure-blooded fellahah peasant. In
fact, she could not have been fairer had she been a blue-eyed,
light-haired Swede or German.
After satisfying my hunger I went to look for antiquities, and found
several rock-cut tombs and cisterns, a fine rock-hewn wine-press, and
four towers all in a good state of preservation, and three of them
inhabited. They measured thirty feet square and as many in height. The
basement stones were massive enough to be the masonry of a former
period, but exactly of what date I am unable to say, possibly not
earlier than the crusades; though I found some foundations of walls
which I am inclined to ascribe to a much older date. There has been
probably a town or village here from time immemorial, though I am unable
to identify it with any Biblical site.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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