Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
It was with a view of seeing what had been done that I determined to
ride over to Sefurieh and from there take a line of my own through the
woods to the Bay of Acre, instead of returning to the coast by the
regular road across the plain of Esdraelon. Passing Cana and the
Christian village of Reineh, where there is an old well with a
sculptured sarcophagus, we leave to our right a Moslem “holy place,”
called Mashad, where there is a conspicuous wely, or Moslem shrine. This
spot Moslem as well as Christian tradition declares to be the tomb of
Jonah. This tradition is based on the fact that the prophet is said in
the Bible to be of Gath-Hepher—and this site is pretty well identified
with that of the modern Mashad. There can be little doubt that these
Moslem welies are the modern representatives of those “high places”
which the ancient Jews were so constantly punished for erecting. They
seem, indeed, to differ in no very marked degree from the “holy places”
of the present day.
In an hour more we are galloping up the grassy slope on the side of
which are the mud hovels of the modern population, whose conversion is
so imminent, and the summit of which is crowned with the picturesque
ruins of a crusading castle, reared upon foundations which are evidently
of a far anterior date. This building is about fifty feet square, and
from the top, which we reach by a dilapidated stair, we have a
magnificent view of the surrounding country, the Buttauf, formerly the
plain of Zebulon, at our feet—at this time of year a sheet of water—with
the high range of the Jebel Safed behind, and bounding the horizon
westward the sea-line of the Bay of Acre, with the wooded hills, through
which lies my proposed route, intervening. On the side of the hill near
the village is the church in process of restoration, and in the
courtyard which has been recently built in front of it, where the
rubbish mound lately stood, are no less than a dozen syenite columns,
some standing to a height of twelve or fifteen feet, some prostrate,
while their capitals and entablatures are strewn around. A small chapel
has been fitted up in one of the side aisles, where a priest from
Nazareth comes every Sunday to perform mass to the Arab and his wife who
are left in charge during the week, and who at present form the whole
congregation. The priest told me that many more handsome columns were in
a subterranean part of the church which had recently been discovered,
but which I could not visit, on account of débris. He also pointed out
the fact that the pillars which supported the arches were divided into
five sections, so built that they might actually enclose the ancient
walls of the house of Joachim and Anna.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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