Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
In the first place, the village itself was out of the question, partly
because Arab houses, as a rule, do not consist of more than one room,
and even when one has turned out their human inhabitants, it still
remains tenanted by so many others of a carnivorous character, though
minute in size, that existence becomes a burden; and partly because they
are pervaded with a singular odour of burnt manure, which the natives
use as fuel for the ovens in which they bake their bread, and which is
too pungent to be agreeable to unsophisticated nostrils. After inhaling
it for a month I have got rather to like it than otherwise. As I
suspected that such might be the case, and believed that a successful
was might be waged against the insects, I decided on hiring one of these
rooms as a guest-chamber and a place of resort from the midday sun, in
case the camp did not prove a sufficient protection. This room was
nothing more nor less than a vault like a cellar, with stone walls and a
stone roof, supported by cross arches, about twenty feet by thirty; and
I may here mention that the precaution turned out wise, for we got
fairly rid of the fleas, and the temperature in the middle of the day,
when we usually repair to it for our siesta, has never been over 80°.
But how to make a camp which should accommodate three ladies and four
gentlemen was a serious question. We had one European tent capable of
holding two people, and a smaller one for a bachelor of modest
requirements in the way of standing-room, and these we supplemented with
a tent which we hired of some neighbouring Bedouins, which was thirty
feet long, but which, when pitched according to their fashion, was an
impossible habitation for civilized beings, as it had no walls. Indeed,
the whole breadth of the black camel's-hair cloth of which it was
composed was only ten feet. We therefore decided on using it merely as a
roof, and sent down to Haifa for a camel load of light lumber in order
to make a frame on which to stretch it. We also got up two dozen cheap
mats, six feet square, at twenty-five cents apiece. With these we made
front and back walls and partitions for sleeping cribs. Finally our
erection, on which we proudly hoisted the national flag, was thirty-four
feet long, ten feet wide, seven feet high in front and five feet in
rear. These mats can be triced up in front and rear in the daytime so as
to allow a free circulation of air. On the roof, in order to keep the
sun from heating too fiercely upon us, we spread branches of the odorous
bay-tree, with which the scrubby woods of the mountain abound, and of
these same branches we erected a kitchen, and stable for the horse and
three donkeys which composed our establishment. The thermometer usually
fell to 70° at night, and there were heavy morning dews and fogs.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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