Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
It was no slight task selecting the furniture, bedding,
cooking-utensils, and comestibles for a party of seven, and it took
eight camels, besides sundry donkeys, to carry all our necessaries. In
order to understand the nature of the path over which we had to travel,
the reader must get rid of the popular notion conveyed by the word
“Mount,” which is usually applied to Carmel, that it is a solitary hill.
So far from such being the case, it is a mountainous district about
fourteen miles long and twelve wide at its base. It culminates in a
promontory, which projects into the sea at its apex, but we are
established ten miles from Haifa, the path ascending abruptly from that
town, and following for nearly three hours' travel the backbone of the
ridge, disclosing views of wondrous beauty down gorges on the right and
left. It is “a rocky road to travel” for a delicate lady, involving
steep, precipitous ascents, for which sure-footed donkeys are best; but
we were obliged to resort to a chair and a litter, each carried by four
bearers, who, as they stumbled and clambered up the narrow path, seemed
bent upon capsizing their human burdens. Now, however, that we have
safely endured the perils of the way, we are amply repaid for them.
The nights and mornings are of ideal beauty. The effects of sunrise and
sunset, ever varying, over the vast landscape that stretches around and
beneath us, are a constant source of wonder and delight. From the
vine-covered terrace on which our camp is situated we look down a wild,
rocky, precipitous gorge eighteen hundred feet upon the plain of the
Kishon, scarce a mile distant, so steep is it. To the right this gorge
widens into an amphitheatre, and the hillsides, sloping more gently, are
terraced with vines, figs, and pomegranates, and at its head is the
copious spring which supplies us with water, to which one of our donkeys
makes several pilgrimages a day with a large earthen jar slung in a
straw cradle on each side. Here, morning and evening, files of Druse
women resort, and stand and gossip round the cistern into which the
water gushes from the rock, their bright-coloured dresses forming a
charming contrast with the dark-green foliage of the gardens and
orchards that are irrigated in the immediate vicinity. Besides about
five hundred Druses there are fifty Christians in the village, who do
not harmonize with the Druses very well, and there is a hot rivalry for
our favour, so that we have to exercise a considerable amount of
diplomacy to keep on good terms with all.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account