Haifa; or, Life in modern PalestineOliphant, Laurence
History
Haifa; or, Life in modern Palestine
Oliphant, Laurence
Palestine -- Description and travel
Haifa, Nov. 27, 1882.—The more you examine the countries most frequented
by tourists, the more you are perplexed to comprehend the reasons which
decide them to confine themselves to certain specified routes, arranged
apparently by guides and dragomans, with a view of concealing from them
the principal objects of interest. There is certainly not one tourist in
a hundred who visits the Holy Land who has ever heard of Athlit, much
less been there, and yet I know of few finer ruins to the west of the
Jordan. To the east the magnificent remains of Jerash, Amman, and
Arak-el Emir are incomparably more interesting, and these, of course,
are also almost ignored by tourists; but that may be accounted for by
the fact that special permission from the government is required to
visit them, while an impression still exists that the journey is
attended with some risk. Practically this is not the case. It takes a
long time to remove an impression of this kind, and it is the interest
of a large class of persons who live on blackmail to keep it up. But in
the case of Athlit there is no such drawback. Probably the neglect with
which it is treated is due largely to the fact that no scriptural
association attaches to the locality, and people would rather go to
Nazareth than examine the majestic remains of Roman civilization, or the
ruder superstructures of crusading warfare.
The easiest way to reach Athlit is to go to it from Carmel. As the
monastery there is a most modern structure, about fifty years old,
tourists often get as far as that, because the guide takes them there;
but they know nothing of the mysteries of this sacred mountain, second
only to Sinai, in the estimation of the modern Jew, in the sanctity of
its reputation, and they turn back when, by riding a few miles down the
coast, they would follow a route full of interest. The road traverses a
plain about two miles in width. On the left, the rugged limestone slopes
of the mountain are perforated with caves—in the earliest ages of
Christianity the resorts of hermits, from whom the order of the
Carmelites subsequently arose. Here tradition still points out the spot
where the crusading king, St. Louis of France, was shipwrecked; and in a
gorge of the mountains may still be seen the foundations of the first
monastery, near a copious spring of clearest water, where the pious
monarch was entertained by the first monks, whom, out of gratitude, he
enabled subsequently to establish themselves upon the site occupied by
the present monastery, and to found an order which has since become
celebrated. Along this line of coast there is an uninterrupted stretch
of sandy beach, upon which the full force of the Mediterranean breaks in
long lines of rollers, and which would afford an interesting field of
study to the conchologist. Among the most curious shells are the _Murex
brandaris_ and the _Murex trunculus_, the prickly shells of the fish
which in ancient times yielded the far-famed Tyrian purple. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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