II CACOS 20 III EVERY MAN'S LAND--A BIT OF HISTORY 38 IV VAUDOUX 52 V PUBLIC EDUCATION AND NORMIL CHARLES 63 VI THE PRESIDENT 74 VII A MORNING HUNT 77 VIII PINE NEEDLES 87 IX COTTON 93 X Gourdes 101 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS ONE OF THE MAIN STREETS OF PORT-AU-PRINCE _Frontispiece_ FACING PAGE SIFTING COFFEE ALONG A PRINCIPAL STREET 13 DESSALINES _Following_ 20 THE "OPEN" MARKET JUST BELOW THE CATHEDRAL _Following_ 20 ENTRANCE TO THE "CLOSED" MARKET 28 MARINE PATROL _Following_ 36 HILLS NEAR MIREBALAIS _Following_ 36 CIVIL PRISONERS OF PORT-AU-PRINCE MAKING CHAIRS 45 WOMEN CARRYING IN TO MARKET BASKETS WHICH THEY HAVE MADE _Following_ 52 THE CATHEDRAL _Following_ 52 A SOURCE OF THE GREATEST GOOD--THE ROMAN CATHOLIC SISTERS AT ONE OF THE MANY CONVENTS ON THE ISLAND 60 THE HEAD NURSE AT THE PUBLIC HOSPITAL WITH HER CORPS OF HAITIAN NURSES 61 MAGISTRAR'S STAND OF WHICH THERE IS ONE IN EVERY TOWN _Following_ 68 THE NEW PRESIDENT'S PALACE _Following_ 68 "WHITE WINGS" OF PORT-AU-PRINCE 76 MARKET WOMEN LEAVING TOWN ON THEIR "BURROS" 77 TYPICAL "CAILLE" NEAR FURCY _Following_ 84 RAILWAY TO LEOGANE _Following_ 84 ON THE ST. MARC ROAD AFTER THE HEAVY RAINS 92 HAITIAN WOMEN WASHING THEIR CLOTHES IN A DITCH _Following_ 100 THE AMERICAN CLUB _Following_ 100 HAITI HAITI I SARGASSO AND FLYING FISH For the first two days out of New York harbor flocks of Herring Gulls followed us and occasionally an odd Robin and a pair of Goldfinches appeared. But after Hatteras was passed and the sea was calmer the gulls left us and flying fish took their place. Stationed at the bow I watched them dart out of the foam and skim, sometimes a few feet, often many yards. At night I took the same post and the phosphorescent "stars of the sea" shone very green against the yellow constellations above.