Haiti: Its dawn of progress after years in a night of revolutionKuser, John Dryden
History
Haiti: Its dawn of progress after years in a night of revolution
Kuser, John Dryden
Haiti -- Description and travel
When we arrived at Troucaiman it was not yet daylight and only the
candles in the few "cailles" along the road could be seen. Upon the
approach of the car, five or six natives appeared, knowing from
past experience what we had come for, and with our French and their
Creole, interspersed by numerous gestures, we made our plans. Each
of us started out, alone in his own tiny dugout of about a foot wide
and four feet long and with his own native in the back to pole him
about. The guides had taken off the few rags which they wore and one
by one we were shoved off. Part of the time we were poled, part of
the time the craft stuck and the native had to wade along beside to
keep us going.
We went on and on in the blackness until finally one could
distinguish black shapes arising from the water or whirring past. It
came at last--the gray dawn for which we had been waiting. A teal
went overhead with its characteristic rapid flight. A slower-flying
redhead and later a scaup passed. And all around were hundreds upon
hundreds of Egrets, great white forms which flappingly arose when we
approached too near.
To the natives there are four kinds of ducks: "gens-gens," which
is a species of tree duck; "cécele" or blue-winged teal; "cucurem"
or ruddy duck; and any other duck is known as "canard generale."
All of the first three species are abundant, as are also the scaup,
baldpate, redhead and Bahaman pintail.
We met at nine on the shore, which by daylight looked very different
than when we had left it, and after some refreshments and comparing
of our respective bags, we started home. There are no game laws in
Haiti, so that your bag is only limited by your lack of skill. Half
way in to Port-au-Prince is the spot where two months before three
Haitian engineers had been murdered in the "caille" where they were
spending the night. The men were working on the road I have spoken
of, but as the caco trouble had been active in that district just
before the men were murdered, these men had been duly forewarned not
to spend the night.
Frequently I used to go out on these shooting trips, but not always
to Troucaiman. Two other spots were alternated, Miragôane in the
west and the salt lakes beyond Troucaiman. These salt lakes are
two decidedly brackish bodies of water which lie on the border of
Haiti and Santo Domingo. They are at the end of the Plain of the
Cul-de-Sac, and a few miles beyond the town of Thomaseau. The water
is as clear as a crystal and the scenery amid these wonderful lakes
and the mountains above them is splendid.
In the opposite direction, and 70 miles west of Port-au-Prince,
is Lake Miragôane. It is just beyond Petit Gôave. The lake
is large, being about eight miles long. In a part of the lake we
had particularly good teal shooting and by moonlight thousands of
"gens-gens" would come in to feed in the shallows overnight. Long
before dawn they had vanished again.
[Illustration: TYPICAL "CAILLE" NEAR FURCY
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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