should just start from it immediately prior to salting. At this time
you want just a little acid but not too much—too much will surely
spoil spring made cheese.
The question arises, “How far must a cheese maker probe into the
hidden mysteries that shroud the digestive assimilation of the
product he manufactures?” We answer that he cannot probe too deeply
or extend his researches too far into the minute. There are too many
makers now with only a superficial knowledge of their craft, and
before there can be any perceptible elevation of quality in American
cheese the shoes of these novices must be filled by such men as we
now term “experts.” Take, for example, the subject of acid which
we are here discussing. A maker who can perceive it only as it is
revealed by stringing on the iron is not competent to be in charge
of a factory, for anybody could detect it there. The development of
lactic acid is a species of fermentation induced by the spontaneous
increase of inherent minute bacteria. It takes the same experience
to perceive and govern it in milk and cheese as it does practice
with square and compass to become a carpenter. We cannot _tell_ you
all about it—it will take many days of careful observation and fine
testing to understand its nature enough to make it your servant
in the cheese making art. That is why makers without practical
experience are always incompetent. Hold curd in the whey until it
shows at least a quarter of an inch of acid by the hot iron and then
draw off whey as quickly as possible. It is always a good plan where
you have large vats and they are pretty well filled to have a third
of the whey drawn off before acid develops, for then you can more
quickly lay bare your curd. As the whey recedes, push the curd with
the rake head toward the upper end of the vat and then tip the vat
down, so that the whey will flow out from the lowest corner. Make
a gutter with your hands through the center of the curd mass and
distribute it in an even pack on each side of the vat. Now, take a
knife and cut it into strips eight inches wide, drawing the knife
from the center gutter toward the side of the vat. Flop these strips
upside down and, to farther facilitate drainage, cut a longitudinal
canal next to the sides of the vat. Examine by the iron and see how
the curd is working as to acid; if it is maturing slowly and the curd
is not hot, shut off all draughts of air, cut the curd into “bricks”
or blocks the size of a brick, and scatter them over the bottom of
the vat. Then cover the vat up with the same cloth that you used
when scalding. If, on the other hand, the curd is hot and maturing
rapidly, cut into small bricks, scatter well and give it all the
air possible, frequently turning the bricks over. Unless positively
unavoidable on account of overplus of acid never grind curd until
you have cooled it down to a temperature of 80°. Above that heat the
fine texture of the curd is torn and mutilated so that it will give
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