As a general thing, less acid is deemed necessary for the October
make than was applied to the September product. I believe that in
making this important change the majority of manufacturers are too
abrupt in method and reduce the standard of ripeness prematurely in
point of time. A certain amount of acid is necessary to impart flavor
and insure good keeping qualities, hence more of it is required in
hot weather than in cold, as a defense against high temperature.
Many think that as soon as the hot days are passed the need of an
advanced curd maturity is passed also, and make almost sweet cheese.
If there is any thing that is fraught with dire consequences in
cheese making, it is extremes practiced in the _modus operandi_.
Avoid anything so derogatory and let conservatism characterize your
movements. Despite seasons and weather, and climate, we have got to
apply just so much acid to cheese to make it palatable and mellow,
and if the product is liable to encounter crucial weather enough more
sourness to retain the flavor established is imperative. But what
weakens fall goods is that in decreasing the acid scale in view of
cold weather ahead the retrograde is pushed beyond its own needs
and infringes on the quality of the cheese. In their zeal to have
the standard just right, I have known old makers to produce a lot
of weak October cheese before they realized where the trouble was.
Better have a little fullness of acid on fall stock than not enough.
“Doctor, why is it that you always buy a late fall cheese for winter
family use?” was asked one of the medical fraternity by a factory
employee as he delivered a forty pounder at his door. “We have in
my estimation far better goods on the shelves made in August and
September, and the price is the same.” “Well, you see, young man,”
said the Doctor, pouring some quinine into a vial, “I have a notion
that late fall cheese is healthier; the milk is no richer, perhaps,
than in September but the air is cool and pure, and, of course, you
know what a debilitating effect heat waves and miasmatic atmospheric
currents have on milk. Well, the less poison there is in the air,
the less there will be in the milk and subsequently in the cheese,
consequently my choice.” I believe the man of pills argued in the
right direction there, but then there is happily a way of expunging
from the curd infections absorbed by the milk from the atmosphere,
namely, airing.
The most diabolical enemy of October cheese is the skimmer. In
factories where that is unused there is a clear field for developing
fine stock, but there is no concealing the fact that all attempts to
smooth over the impoverishing effects of its use by the most skilled
treatment are futile and unavailing. If all of the good endeavor
to make mellow, rich cheese out of substance that is but dross was
expended in divorcing the illegitimate union of creamery and cheese
factory, incalculable benefit would accrue to dairy interests.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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