From Florence he went to Rome for the Easter festivals in April, 1707.
Even there the moment was not very favourable for him. The Grand Opera
House, the _Tor di Nona_, had been destroyed as immoral by an edict of
Pope Innocent XII ten years before. Since 1700, things had been a little
easier for the musicians, but in 1703 a terrible earthquake had
desolated the country, and reawakened religious qualms.[96] Even in
1709, during the whole of Handel's sojourn in Italy, there was not a
single representation of Opera at Rome. On the other hand, religious
music and chamber music were enjoying a great vogue. Handel, during the
first months, listened and studied the religious music at Rome, and
tried his hand on similar works. From this period dated his Latin
Psalms.[97] Thanks to the letters of recommendation he had from the
Medici, he had also been introduced into the Roman _salons_. He became
famous there, more on account of his _virtuoso_ powers on the keyboard
than of those of composer. He remained at Rome until the autumn of
1707.[98] Doubtless, he returned to Florence in the month of October,
and it appears that he then produced _Roderigo_ for the first time.
Handel had then been nearly a year in Italy. He set about writing an
opera in Italian. His boldness was justified. _Roderigo_ was successful.
Handel gained through it the favour of the Grand Duke, and the love of
the Prima Donna, Vittoria Tarquini.[99] Fortified by his first victory
he went on to try his luck at Venice.
Venice was then the musical metropolis of Italy. It was in a way the
real kingdom of Opera. The first public opera house had been already
open there for half a century, and after it, fifteen other opera houses
had sprung into being. During the Carnival no less than seven opera
houses were open each evening there. Every night also a musical union
was held at the Academy of Music, and occasionally twice or even three
times in one evening. Every day in the churches, musical solemnities
and concerts, which lasted for many hours, with several orchestras, many
organs, and numerous full and echo choirs,[100] and on Saturday and
Sunday the famous Vespers of the Hospitals, those conservatoires for
women where they taught music to orphans and foundlings, or, more
frequently, to the girls who had fine voices. They gave orchestral and
vocal concerts, over which all Venice raved. Venice, indeed, was bathed
in music, the entire life was threaded with it. Life was a perpetual
round of pleasure.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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