Of Ambresbury Camp, which we have now attained, much has been said and
written in dispute as to its origin. There, however, seems to be little
doubt that it formed an important British earthwork, and, despite all
that has been said to the contrary, it is extremely probable that it
formed the final stronghold of Boadicea, Queen of the Iceni, from which
she and her vast army of Britons issued forth to do battle with the Roman
legions under Suetonius Paulinus, and suffered that terrible defeat of
which history tells us. This is a spot, therefore, that awakens solemn
thoughts.
Copt Hall and Upshire.
The road back to Waltham turns out of the Epping highway directly
opposite the camp, and takes us by the main entrance and lodges of Copt
Hall, once the stately seat of the abbots of Waltham, who frequently
entertained royal heads, potent princes, and great nobles here. Robert
Fuller, the last abbot, surrendered the beautiful mansion and domain to
Henry VIII. at the Dissolution. In later times Copt Hall was the
residence of the Princess Mary, subsequently the seat of the Earl of
Middlesex, patron of old Thomas Fuller, and is now held by the Wythes
family. Half a mile further on we enter the pretty hamlet of Upshire,
with its broad expanse of green and pretty little church, built a year or
two ago by Sir T. Fowell Buxton, Bart., lord of the manor, whose fine
domain of Warlies stretches far away over the undulating country to the
north. The entrance to Warlies is passed at the bottom of the hill.
Thence the way is by a pleasant country road, running through fields and
pastures, with here and there a farm-house or a group of cottages, to
Waltham Abbey again.
[Picture: The Eleanor Cross at Waltham]
CHAPTER III.
WALTHAM CROSS AND THEOBALDS
WALTHAM CROSS, which is not to be confounded with Waltham Holy Cross,
commonly called Waltham Abbey, for whilst the latter is in Essex, the
former is in Hertfordshire, and forms part of the parish of Cheshunt. To
reach Waltham Cross, the visitor must retrace his steps towards the
railway, and passing over this, the historic monument, which stands at
the junction with the old Great North Road—is reached by a walk of five
minutes’ duration.
Waltham Cross was one of the several similar monuments erected to the
memory of Queen Eleanor by her devoted husband, Edward I. She died at
Herdby, near Grantham, on November 12, 1290, whence her remains were
conveyed to Westminster for interment by stages which were marked by ten
crosses. Of these only the crosses at Geddington, Northampton, and
Waltham remain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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