With the Abbey, the Cross, and the Four Swans Inn we leave behind us, it
may be said, associations with and monuments of mediæval times, and enter
upon the later, but no less stirring epoch of English history which is
marked by the Tudor, Jacobean, and Commonwealth periods, by a visit to
the historic seat of Theobalds, or Tibbles, as it is locally called. The
entrance to the park is from the high road, close to Theobalds Grove
Station on the Great Eastern Railway branch line to Cheshunt. As one
saunters through the long leafy aisle, there comes to mind the reference
to this famous seat and its locality in old Izaak Walton’s famous
classic, the “Complete Angler,” wherein the angler, the hunter, and the
falconer, each commends his recreation; Piscator avows his intention of
going “this fine, fresh May morning,” as far as Ware, whereupon Venator
says his purpose is to “drink my morning draught at the Thatched House,
Hoddesdon,” and Anceps rejoins: “Sir, I shall, by your favour, bear you
company as far as Theobalds, and there leave you; for then I turn up to a
friend’s house, who mews a hawk for me, which I now long to see.” The
present house of Theobalds, which is the seat of Lady Meux, is modern,
having been erected in 1768, and, though large, is not beautiful. A view
of the house and gardens can be obtained by taking the footpath on the
left, running along the bank of the New River, the stream being widened
into a lake here, and creating a very pretty feature of the Park lands.
[Picture: Temple Bar. In its new home, at the main entrance to Theobalds
Park]
The main entrance to the house is by the famous Temple Bar, which stands
a little further along the drive from which the path has been taken. A
more beautiful setting for Wren’s wonderful gateway it would scarcely be
possible to conceive or create, and I know not another gateway entrance
to a private park or domain throughout the country that is more beautiful
than this. The nobility of its lines, the grandeur of the design, and
the beauty of the stone are here all thrown into wonderful relief by the
rich green of the foliage which forms the setting of the gate. One
cannot help wondering what Dr. Johnson, or Sir Joshua Reynolds, or
Charles Lamb, to all of whom the old gate that marked the western
boundary of the city was familiar, would have said if they could have
seen it transported to its present position. They were all ardent lovers
of the town, and would certainly have lamented its loss from their Fleet
Street. The Doctor would probably have said, “Sir! it is a vile outrage
upon the City of London.” Yet I think their artistic perceptions would
have compelled them to admit that its new home endowed it with a grandeur
that it never before possessed.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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