When the last piece of foil is laid on, with its short strip above it, add two or three thicknesses of paper, and then the other board. With four screw-clamps, one at each corner, press together the mass of foil, paper, and boards as closely as possible, then bind the boards about with adhesive tape, or stout twine, and release the clamps. Attach all the projecting ends of foil at one side by means of a binding-post, and those at the other end with another binding-post. The complete condenser will then appear as shown in Fig. 20. When in operation one wire leading from the secondary coil should be connected with a binding-post of the condenser, so that it is in series. The object of the condenser is to increase the efficiency of induction, and it should be made in proportion to the size of the induction-coil with which it is to be employed. Circuit-Interrupters When an induction-coil is to be employed as a shocker (and there is no vibrating armature arranged in connection with the core), a circuit-interrupter must be employed to get the effect of the pulsations, as given out by the secondary coil when a current is passing through the primary. There are various forms of circuit-breakers that may be made for this purpose, but for really efficient service the type shown in Fig. 21 is perhaps the best that can be devised. This interrupter consists of a metal cog-wheel with saw-teeth, a pinion or axle, and a handle. Also a base-block, with uprights to support it, and a piece of spring-brass wire, arranged so as to bear against the wheel. When the wheel is revolved the spring-wire will be driven out by each tooth; and when released it flies back to the wheel, striking the bevelled edge of a tooth at each trip. Two binding-posts, arranged on the block, will provide means of connecting in-and-out wires. With a coat or two of shellac on the wood-work and black asphaltum varnish on all surfaces of the metal that are not used for contact, this circuit-interrupter will be ready for any use in connection with an induction-coil. The base-block is of pine, white-wood, or cypress, seven-eighths of an inch thick, three inches wide, and five inches long. The uprights, which support the wheel, are half an inch thick and one inch wide. The wheel is three inches in diameter and is made of brass one-sixteenth of an inch thick. The design of the wheel should be laid out with a compass and marked with lead-pencil or a sharp-pointed awl, which will leave a mark clear enough to be seen when sawing and filing the teeth and open places. [Illustration: FIG. 21] [Illustration: FIG. 22]