Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. XXVII, August 1852, Vol. VVarious
History
Harper's New Monthly Magazine, No. XXVII, August 1852, Vol. V
Various
American literature -- Periodicals; Civilization -- Periodicals; Culture -- Periodicals
A LEAF FROM A TRAVELER'S NOTE-BOOK.
BY MAUNSELL B. FIELD.
"Another flask of Orvieto, Gaetano, and tell the vetturino that we
start to-morrow morning, punctually at six," exclaimed one of three
foreigners, seated around a table, in the smokiest corner of the
"_Lepre_"--the artist-haunt of the _Via Condotti_.
The speaker was a plain looking French gentleman, who, under the
simplest exterior, concealed the most admirable mind and the highest
personal qualities. A Provincial by birth, a Parisian by education,
and a cosmopolite by travel, he united all the peculiar sagacity of
his nation with that more dignified tone of character so rarely met
with in his countrymen. Descended from a family of Lorraine, who had
inherited the magistracy for centuries, and who, ruined at the
emigration, had only partially recovered their fortunes at the
restoration, our friend (_ours_, at least, reader) found himself, on
attaining his majority, possessed of a sufficient competency to
enable him to travel in a moderate way, so long as the taste should
continue. And here he had been residing in Rome a twelvemonth (not
_rushing through_ it with cis-Atlantic steam-power), studying art
with devotion, and living the intense life of Italian existence. His
companions at the moment our recital commences, were an old
Hollander, who had emerged from commerce into philosophy (no very
usual exit!) and myself, whom chance had made a lounger in European
capitals--a pilgrim from both Mecca and Jerusalem--and a connoisseur
in every vintage from Burgundy to Xeres.
Carnival, with its fantastic follies, when the most constitutionally
sedate by a species of frenzied reaction become the most reckless in
absurdity, was past. Holy Week, with its gorgeous ecclesiastical
mummery--its magnificent fire-works, and its still more magnificent
illumination was likewise gone. Nearly all the travelers who had
been spending the winter in Rome, including the two thousand English
faces which, from their constant repetition at every public place,
seemed at least two hundred thousand, had disappeared. Our own party
had lingered after the rest, loath to leave, perhaps forever, the
most fascinating city in the world to an intelligent mind. But at
last we too, had determined to go, and our destination was Naples.
That very afternoon we had taken one of the tumble-down carriages,
which station on the _Piazza di Spagna_, to make a farewell _giro_
through the Forum. Leaving Rome is not like leaving any other town.
Associations dating from early childhood, and linking the present
with the past, make familiar, before they are known, objects in
themselves so intrinsically interesting and beautiful, that the
strongest attachment is sure to follow a first actual acquaintance
with them. And when that acquaintance has been by daily intercourse
matured, it is hard to give it up.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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