It is essential that there should be enough of clear space to allow a
full swing with the driving-clubs. Fifteen feet will do, but eighteen or
twenty will be better. The ball attached to the driving-machine must
have a free course in front of it of at least a dozen feet, for
otherwise its full force will not be communicated to the spring, and the
dial will not register correctly. The machine itself is placed a little
to one side, so as not to interfere with the club, and the ball should
be teed about a yard in front of it. After the tee shot, when the ball
is supposed to be on the ground (as in actual play), we may use an old
door-mat as a substitute for turf, and we will call this the
"driving-pad."
In playing approach shots a free ball is used, and it may be placed on
the "driving-pad" and about fifteen feet from the approaching-stand or
canvas target. In the middle of the floor should be a mark for the
placing of the putting-stand during the process of "holing out." A chalk
line should be drawn from this mark fifteen feet long, with cross marks
at the one, six, and fifteen foot points. So much for the mechanical
apparatus; now for the course itself.
[Illustration 1: No. 1.--Ball in earth bunker or fence, drop five yards
back and add one stroke. Ball in sand, play off bare floor. No. 2.--Ball
in "Serpentine," drop five yards back and add one stroke. No. 3.--Ball
in pond is lost. Tee again and add two strokes. No. 4.--Ball in sand
bunker, drop five yards back and add one stroke.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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