The street contained shops of all sorts--shops of curios brought home by
the sailors and sold to their merchants; jewellers' shops; shops
offering telescopes, sextants, and all kinds of naval things; taverns
and hotels--then called inns. These shops, however, were not designed
for able-bodied Jack, I believe, but for his officer.
It was a fine lookout from the Hard upon the harbor, which was crammed
full of ships--ships fitting, ships just come home, harbor-ships, hulks,
store-ships, tugs, tenders, and small steamers. As yet the man-o'-war
was a wooden ship. She carried 120 guns and a thousand men; mostly she
sailed, and in the art of sailing she had no equal. As a boy I thought,
and still think, that there is no work of man's craft and ingenuity more
wonderful, more beautiful, than a great three-decker in full sail.
Those who wished to cross the harbor or to visit a ship, started from
the "Beach" or from the "Logs." The Beach was a narrow spit of sand and
shingle running out into the water; it was the "stairs" for the
watermen, who all day long kept up a perpetual bawling. "Going over? One
more. Just going over. Only one more!" When they had a boat-load, say
six or eight passengers at a penny apiece, they put off, and rowed
across the harbor to Gosport, on the other side.
Saw one ever a more animated sight than the harbor on a fine summer
morning in the forties? Boats manned by Royal Navy men working their way
here and there, yachts letting out their sails for a cruise in the
Solent, wherries plying backwards and forwards, ships in the grip of the
tide. We pass on our way the _Victory_, Nelson's last ship; she is
moored off the Beach, and swings round with every tide. If you went on
board you would see the place where Nelson fell, and the place where
Nelson died--a dark and noisome hole on the orlop-deck down below.
Yonder black hulk without masts is a ship whose exploits would fill a
volume. Her name is the _Billy Ruffian_--mealy mouths call her the
_Bellerephon_. Beside her, another dismasted hulk, now a coal-ship, is
the _Asia_, from which was fired the shot which blew up the Turkish
Admiral at Navarino. Beside her is the _Arethusa_, another historic
ship. Beyond, in line, the old worn-out ships are laid up one after the
other up the harbor; they are all historic ships; to hear their names is
to be reminded of Copenhagen, the Nile, Trafalgar; they are store-ships,
coal-ships, training-ships now, and those painted yellow are the
convict-hulks. How much misery, how much brutality, how much despair had
their permanent home on those terrible yellow ships called
convict-hulks? The men were taken ashore every day to work--their work,
the heaviest and the most disagreeable, lay chiefly in the Dock-yard;
they worked under warders armed with guns, shotted and bayonetted. Many
a time have I gone into the yard, a penny quid or screw of tobacco
secreted in my pocket. One would get as near as one dared to one of the
gang without raising suspicions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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