On the 7th we landed at Goa, the capital of the Portuguese
possessions in the East. I reckoned much on my visit to Goa,
expecting, from its being the residence of the archbishop and
many ecclesiastics, that I should obtain such information about
the Christians in India as would render it superfluous to make
inquiries elsewhere, but I was much disappointed. Perhaps it was
owing to our being accompanied by several officers, English and
Portuguese, that the archbishop and his principal agents would
not be seen; but so it was, that I scarcely met with a man who
could make himself intelligible. We are shown what strangers are
usually shown, the churches and monasteries, but I wanted to
contemplate man, the only thing on earth almost that possesses
any interest for me. I beheld the stupendous magnificence of
their noble churches without emotion, except to regret that the
Gospel was not preached in them. In one of the monasteries we
saw the tomb of Francis Xavier, the Apostle of India, most
richly ornamented, as well as the room in which it stands, with
paintings and figures in bronze, done in Italy. The friar who
showed us the tomb, happening to speak of the grace of God in
the heart, without which, said he, as he held the sacramental
wafer, the body of Christ profits nothing. I began a
conversation with him, which, however, came to nothing.
We visited among many other places the convent of nuns. After a
long altercation with the lady porter we were admitted to the
antechamber, in which was the grate, a window with iron bars,
behind which the poor prisoners make their appearance. While my
companions were purchasing their trinkets I was employed in
examining their countenances, which I did with great attention.
In what possible way, thought I, can you support existence, if
you do not find your happiness in God? They all looked ill and
discontented, those at least whose countenances expressed
anything. One sat by reading, as if nothing were going on. I
asked to see the book, and it was handed through the grate.
Finding that it was a Latin prayer-book, I wrote in Latin
something about the love of the world, which seclusion from it
would not remove. The Inquisition is still existing at Goa. We
were not admitted as far as Dr. Buchanan was, to the Hall of
Examination, and that because he printed something against the
inquisitors which came to their knowledge. The priest in waiting
acknowledged that they had some prisoners within the walls, and
defended the practice of imprisoning and chastising offenders,
on the ground of its being conformed to the custom of the
Primitive Church. We were told that when the officers of the
Inquisition touch an individual, and beckon him away, he dares
not resist; if he does not come out again, no one must ask about
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