Heraldry as art: An account of its development and practice, chiefly in EnglandEve, G. W. (George William)
History
Heraldry as art: An account of its development and practice, chiefly in England
Eve, G. W. (George William)
Heraldry -- Great Britain
In the warrant of Charles II it is directed that all the coronets shall
be worn over a cap of crimson velvet lined with ermine, and having a
tassel of gold at the top. This cap, however, is not an essential part
of the coronet, although a head covering of considerable distinction in
itself. During the greater part of the Middle Ages the temporal peerage
consisted principally of earls and barons, the former distinguished by
the circlet of gold, which was variously decorated, and the latter by a
cap of crimson lined with fur. For military purposes, the coronet was
fixed to the helmet, and at other times it was placed, for practical
reasons of comfort among others, round the cap which formed part of
contemporary costume, as may be seen in many of the beautiful French
and Italian medals of the fifteenth century, notably in one of Louis
XII at the end of that period. Fig. 143. In another composition of
about the same time, a head of King Herod has a crown which encircles
a cap of the shape usually ascribed, in modern times, to a Cap of
Maintenance. The last-named head covering is one of much interest as
an early subject of privilege, although but little appears to be known
about it. Its shape was obviously not its distinctive quality, and
it must therefore have been the material or colour which constituted
its especial value; and having regard to the sumptuary restrictions
concerning the wearing of ermine, among other things, it seems probable
that its lining of this fur was its distinctive quality, and that being
prohibited to those of inferior rank, it would naturally be the cap
that would be associated with a coronet when it was actually worn. Thus
was formed the prototype of the coronets as described in the warrants
of the end of the seventeenth century, when caps of this character had
ceased to be part of the ordinary costume of people of position. The
cap is therefore a means of wearing the coronet and no indication of
definite rank and may certainly be omitted in heraldic design, since it
adds nothing to what is signified by the coronet itself and is not an
essential part of it.
This view would appear to have been the contemporary official one, for
many of the Garter plates subsequent to the warrant of Charles II have
no caps to the coronets, and that of John, Duke of Argyle, 1700, may be
cited as an example, among others.
By the before-mentioned warrant, the use of the ermine-lined caps was
extended to barons equally with other ranks of the peerage.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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