Half way down the sides of the hills, in the district last named, the
Chalk is more or less completely exposed at the surface along a narrow
zone, below which we come upon deposits of gravel, sand, and clay
filling the bottoms of the valleys. At Bowling Alley, Harpenden, these
deposits are fully forty feet in thickness. Although they have been
supposed to be the result of river action, it is more probable that
they are due to rain-wash. Indeed this is practically proved in the
case of the valley leading from Harpenden towards No-Man’s-Land, where
the lower end is blocked by a ridge of gravel, which could not possibly
have been formed by river action. The stones in these valley-gravels
are of irregular shape, and thus quite different from the rounded
pebbles of the gravels of the Woolwich and Reading beds, as seen at St
Peter’s, St Albans. At Harpenden the uppermost layer of valley-gravel
is extremely clean and sharp, generally of a golden yellow colour with
blackish veins. Deposits of brick-earth occur locally throughout the
Chalk area.
Over the greater part of the county the soil is the result of the
decomposition of the foregoing superficial formations; and is
consequently in most cases of a stiffer and more clayey character on
the hill-tops than in the valleys, where it frequently forms only a
bed of a foot, or even less, in thickness above the sharp, running
gravel. Everywhere in the Chalk districts the soil contains a vast
number of flints; but it is, nevertheless, admirably adapted for
corn-growing, and especially for malting-grain; Hertford being one of
the four English counties best suited to crops of the latter nature.
On many of the unenclosed commons the soil is, however, of a poor and
hungry nature, producing various kinds of inferior grass, together
with spring-flowering gorse, as on Harpenden Common, or heather, as
at Kingsbourn Green, between Harpenden and Luton, and at Gustard
Wood, near Wheathampstead. On the higher Chalk Downs near Dunstable
and Royston there is little or no soil properly so-called; the short,
but sweet and nourishing grass growing on the chalk itself. A very
different type of soil obtains in the London Clay area in the south and
east of the county; this being heavy and clayey, and thus better suited
for grass than for corn; in fact in the old days the Middlesex portion
of this district was known to the country people as the “Hay-country.”
Along many of the river-valleys peaty soils of a marshy and swampy
nature prevail.
7. Natural History.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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