Produced by Marilynda Fraser-Cunliffe, Taavi Kalju and the Online Distributed Proofreaders Europe at http://dp.rastko.net. (This file was made using scans of public domain works from the University of Michigan Digital Libraries.) [Illustration: A MOONLIGHT BIVOUAC.] HERZEGOVINA; OR OMER PACHA AND THE CHRISTIAN REBELS. WITH A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF SERVIA, ITS SOCIAL, POLITICAL, AND FINANCIAL CONDITION. BY LIEUT. G. ARBUTHNOT, R.H.A., F.R.G.S. [Illustration: Official Seal of Omer Pacha] LONDON: LONGMAN, GREEN, LONGMAN, ROBERTS, & GREEN. 1862. PRINTED BY SPOTTISWOODE AND CO. NEW-STREET SQUARE PREFACE. The wanderings of an unknown in an unknown land may not be a subject of universal interest, and as such require a few words of apology, or possibly of defence. To convey an accurate idea of a country the inhabitants of which differ from ourselves in creed, origin, and in all their habits of life, it would be necessary to have passed a lifetime amongst them. It may therefore be deemed presumptuous in me to attempt so comprehensive a task, upon the meagre experience of a few short months. And such it would be, did I entertain such aspirations. The impossibility, however, of identifying myself with a people, with whose very language I have but a slight acquaintance, would banish such a thought. My object is rather to describe briefly and simply everything that presented itself to my own notice; upon the evidence of which, coupled with the observations of the few who have devoted any attention to the condition of these countries, I have founded my views and opinions. Far be it from me to assume that they have more claim to be regarded as correct, than the opinions of others who may differ from me. Above all, if any of my remarks on the subject of the Greek and Latin religions should appear somewhat severe, I would have it clearly understood, that nowhere is allusion intentionally made to these churches, save in the relation which they bear to the Illyric Provinces of European Turkey. [Illustration: Signature of Author in Turkish Characters] CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Object of Travels--Start--Mad Woman--Italian Patriot--Zara--Sebenico--Falls of Kerka--Dalmatian Boatmen--French Policy and Austrian Prospects-- Spalatro--Palace of Diocletian--Lissa--Naval Action--Gravosa--Ragusa--Dalmatian Hotel--Change of Plans Pages 1--15 CHAPTER II. Military Road to Metcovich--Country Boat--Stagno--Port of Klek--Disputed Frontier--Narentine Pirates--Valley of the Narenta--Trading Vessels--Turkish Frontier--Facilities for Trade granted by Austria--Narenta--Fort Opus--Hungarian Corporal--Metcovich--Irish Adventurer--Gabella--Pogitel-- Dalmatian Engineer--Telegraphic Communication--Arrival at Mostar--Omer Pacha--Object of Campaign 16--32 CHAPTER III.