Transcriber's Note: Inconsistent hyphenation and spelling in the original document have been preserved. Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. Italic text is denoted by _underscores_. On page 59, "ever kind" should possibly be "every kind". References on pages 157 and 163 to dates in April should perhaps be to dates in May. On page 208, words seem to be missing from the phrase starting "probably a warrior of renown". On page 234, "drave" should possibly be "drove". HESPEROTHEN; NOTES FROM THE WEST: A RECORD OF A RAMBLE IN THE UNITED STATES AND CANADA IN THE SPRING AND SUMMER OF 1881. BY W. H. RUSSELL, LL. D. BARRISTER-AT-LAW. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. LONDON: SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, SEARLE, & RIVINGTON, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188 FLEET STREET. 1882. [All rights reserved.] LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. TO HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF SUTHERLAND (COUNTESS OF CROMARTY), THIS RECORD OF THE RECENT VISIT OF THE DUKE OF SUTHERLAND TO AMERICA, IS RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED BY WILLIAM HOWARD RUSSELL. LONDON, Dec. 1881. PREFACE. On the 16th of April last, in pursuance of an arrangement to that effect which was entered into some months earlier with the Duke of Sutherland,[1] a small party of gentlemen and one lady left Liverpool in the Cunard Company's steamer "_Gallia_," with the object of making a tour in the United States. Previous to their departure, Mr. Henry Crosfield, the Auditor of the London and North-Western Railway Company, had been in communication with friends in America, and had in concert with them sketched out a general scheme to enable the visitors to traverse the Atlantic States, to extend their journey westwards and to obtain the best possible view of the country in the limited space of time at their disposal. Although all were "on pleasure bent," those of the tourists who had interests in railways on this side of the world were naturally anxious to study the modes of management which were practised on the principal lines as closely as such a hurried journey would allow them; but the main object of the travellers was "to see the States"--to behold with their own eyes the natural features of the vast continent which is exercising a rapidly increasing influence on Great Britain and Europe itself, and to view the manners and customs of the great nation which even in its present enormous development gives only the indications of a lusty youth, promising a manhood of irresistible vigour and strength in time to come if the body politic fulfils its early hope. To be sure, the inspection could not be very close, minute, or protracted. Shooting flying is not an art given to all people, and the contemplation of man at a hotel or in a street, as one looks around in the dining-room or