Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
as there were little wooden huts at intervals perhaps of ten or twelve
miles, where a saloon announced itself, and a possible ticket-office.
On the east of the plain through which the line runs, the peaks of
the Sierra Nevada were visible, but the journey was rather monotonous
all the same, and we were glad when our train halted at Madera, about
ninety miles from Goshen, where we were to get out and start on our
expedition to the Yosemite Valley. Especial arrangements had been
made for our conveyance, but I almost doubt now whether it would not
have been better for us to have taken the ordinary carriage which
leaves Madera every day, except Monday, for the Yosemite Valley, at
7.45, arriving at Clarke's or Bruce's in somewhat less than twelve
hours, so as to bring daylight with it to the halting-place; a very
desirable thing, as we soon found out. It was 8 o'clock before our
party started from Madera, in two Kendal carriages with four horses
each. In one was the Duke, Lady Green, Mr. Stephen, and myself, with
Crockett on the box; in another were Sir Henry Green, Mr. Wright, Major
Anderson, and Mr. Jerome. Our driver was a man with the impossible
name of MacLenathan, a resolute, dry, taciturn man, with a good face,
seamed with the exposure to sun and rain of many years on the box.
But he told us he had deserted it lately, and had taken to the work
of livery stable keeper, only coming out on this occasion as driver to
do honour to the Duke. As it turned out, it was well his right and his
left hand had not lost their cunning. The driver of the other carriage
was a noted character, rejoicing in the name of "Buffalo Bill," and
later on we had reason to feel very thankful to him also for the
possession of great pluck and nerve. For some ten or twelve miles the
route, which consists of mere wheel tracks over the prairie, runs over
moderately undulating land. On the right there is a shoot or _flume_
for carrying down timber from the upper part of the mountain ridge
fifty miles away. The dust was troublesome, and the rapid motion of
the four horses scarcely saved us from the roasting sun. The scenery
was not interesting; indeed, the great object of attraction was the
little Californian quail with his pretty crest, running across through
the grass or jumping up upon a stump to have a look at the travellers.
Stage stables were far apart, but the speed was fair, and it was
astonishing to see the excellent condition in which the horses were
at the end of their long canter, and what capital steeds were taken
out of the stalls, in which they were feeding on barley-straw, to
be put into the traces. I think the average length of the stages was
about twelve miles. We lost about an hour at a little mining village
where we halted for dinner, a place called Coarse Gold, as well as
I recollect, consisting of the usual buildings, a few shanties, the
store, the hotel, far better than might have been expected, and a sort
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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