Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
It was near 4 o'clock when the driver, who had been silent for some
time, looking round at us occasionally as one who would say, "Wait a
little till I surprise you," suddenly pulling up, said, "Now, here you
are. This is Fascination Point! Won't you get down a bit?" And, lo!
there indeed lay before us a scene of indescribable grandeur. I know
nothing like the effect produced by Yosemite Valley when seen for the
first time from this point. It has a characteristic which no other
similar view I am acquainted with possesses. You take in at one glance
stupendous mountain-ranges, all but perpendicular, beyond which you see
the snowy crests of the great Sierra, the profound valley between them,
a long vista of extraordinary magnificence, of cascades and precipitous
waterfalls, and far down below a silvery river rushing through a
forest composed of the noblest trees in the world, with patches of
emerald-green sward and bright meadows.
I see that by a slip of the pen I have miscalled the place from which
we got our first view of the wondrous scene. But I have a right to
change the name for my own use. What the driver said was "Inspiration
Point." I prefer my mistake, for the view inspires you with no feeling
save that of wonder and delight. These sublime scenes appear to be
beyond the reach of poetry. Niagara and the Yosemite have not yet
found a laureate. The peculiar and unique feature of the valley seems
to me to be the height and boldness of the cliffs which spring out
from the mountain-sides like sentinels to watch and ward over the
secrets of the gorge; next to that is the number and height of the
waterfalls; but it is only by degrees and by comparison that the mind
takes in the fact that the cliffs are not hundreds, but thousands
of feet high--that these bright, flashing, fleecy cataracts fall for
thousands of feet--that the rent which has been torn in the heart of
the mountains, till it is closed by the awful granite portals beyond
which no mortal may pass, extends for miles. I thought as I gazed
that it were pity to descend, lest a nearer view might destroy the
effect of that _coup d'oeil_; but the driver had regulated the period
for rapture. He whipped us up to our places by word of mouth, and
the carriages renewed their course, now striking by bold zigzags down
into the valley for our destination, which was still six miles away. I
shall not attempt to describe my own feelings, far less can I pretend
to tell what others, probably far more susceptible of the beauty and
grandeur of what we beheld than I am, may have felt at the succession
of the awe-inspiring revelations of the tremendous grandeur of the
Valley which came upon us. What is the use of rolling off a catalogue
of names and figures?--even the brush of the painter, charged with
the truest colours and guided by the finest hand and eye, could never
do justice--that is, could never give a just idea of these cliffs and
waterfalls. "El Capitan! Oh, that's the name, is it? Three thousand
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