Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
_June 6th._--All up at 5 o'clock, and off soon after 6 A.M. The first
stage, eleven miles, we did in two hours and ten minutes--a very
pretty road; the second stage, eight miles, in forty-four minutes. The
ravages made by fires are most deplorable. We had passed through this
great forest track in the dark, but now seen in the morning light, the
trunks of magnificent trees rotting on the ground, or standing upright
with lifeless arms, consumed at the base, were visible everywhere.
It is difficult to find out the exact truth about the cause of these
fires. Some few people said "it was the Indians," but the weight of
testimony attributes them to the shepherds, who for the most trifling
purposes kindle a great fire. In some of the large trees they have
hollowed out regular chambers, and of course the tree dies. Such waste
of timber! For mile after mile we passed scenes of desolation which
ere long those who allowed them will have cause to regret. From time
to time we encountered on the road trains of waggons drawn by teams of
handsome mules with bells, and had occasion to admire the economy of
labour exhibited in the management, by which the driver is enabled to
work a powerful break with one hand whilst he drives with the other.
The next stage, of fourteen miles, was over an exceedingly bad road;
but the horses were good, and we rattled along at a capital speed down
towards the plain. Once the quick-eyed driver, pulling up suddenly,
said, "See that rattle?" leaped down and made towards the bush; and
as we followed him, sure enough we heard distinctly the noise of the
snake, which he had intercepted on its way to a rabbit hole. It took
refuge in a clump of bushes with gnarled roots, and coiled itself round
one of the branches; but by a course of judicious and rather nervous
poking it was driven from its vantage ground, and trying to escape was
killed by the driver with a blow of his whip, followed by a good many
unnecessary strokes from the rest of the party. It was over three feet
long, and had just been making an evening meal upon a rabbit, which it
had left where we had startled it; and it was evident from its swollen
appearance that it had been for some time engaged in the warren close
at hand.
At 10.20 we reached Fresno, which is what the Americans call "quite
a place," containing not only an hotel, a restaurant, and a store,
but a shop where photographs were exhibited. The _chef-d'oeuvre_, a
portrait of a Spanish lady 140 years of age, living at Los Angeles, did
not, however, commend itself to our taste. We halted at Coarse Gold at
11.40, and left at 12.35. Mr. Jerry Loghlan--who excused himself for
not working on the ground that "there was no use in it, as there was
nothing to be had," the mines being worked "out"--whose acquaintance we
had made on the way up, a huge, broad-shouldered _vaurien_, was still
hanging about with his specimens of quartz, gold, and rattlesnakes'
tails, and a black eye recently acquired in battle.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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