Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881Russell, William Howard, Sir
History
Hesperothen; Notes from the West, Vol. 2 (of 2): A Record of a Ramble in the United States and Canada in the Spring and Summer of 1881
Russell, William Howard, Sir
United States -- Description and travel
_June 10th._--In the spacious courtyard of the Palace Hotel, at
7 o'clock this morning, there might have been observed three
well-appointed waggons (as Americans call the vehicle more
appropriately termed "spider" at the Cape), each with two horses
of race, fast trotters, panting for a spin through the city and the
Park out to the shores of the Pacific. The Duke and Sir H. Green and
Mr. Stephen were driven by Mr. Howard. Mr. Wright was "personally
conducted" by Mr. ----, and I was put behind a pair of as handsome
chestnuts as could well be seen anywhere, of which the owner and
driver (General Barnes) was very reasonably proud. The streets of
San Francisco, like those of most of the American cities we have
visited, are atrociously paved; the torture of driving over boulders
is aggravated by the sharp ribs of the tram ways, so that it is not
pleasant, if, indeed, it be possible, to drive rapidly till the limit
of municipal incompetence or fraud be passed. But once out on the
suburbs the chestnuts were invited to step it, and were bowling along
at a good fourteen miles an hour on our way to the Park, over as good
a road as horse or man ever felt under hoof or foot. The Park not long
ago was a waste of sand, it is now swarded and planted with shrubs, and
luxuriant with flowers. Notices that it was unlawful to do more than
ten miles an hour were posted up, but the General did not pay strict
attention to them till he came near shady places, where experience
warned him that policemen might be lying privily in ambush. The pace
was quickened till the waggon seemed to fly through the air rather
than move over the ground. It was the perfection of travelling on
wheels--almost as buoyant as a headlong gallop. The waggon weighed but
180 lb., the powerful animals "scarcely felt it more than their tails."
I had a turn at the reins by "kind permission" of the General. The art
of driving trotters needs practice. You must keep a strong, steady
pull on the head, or they "break." Very soon I had the satisfaction
of making the chestnuts break the law with a vengeance, and of hearing
the General say, "We are just within the three minutes! not ten seconds
inside it!"--that is, of trotting at the rate of just twenty miles an
hour. Up hill and down hill, and along the flat out of the Park and
over the smooth road, and in half an hour the Pacific was in sight, and
the murmurs of the surf rose above the rhythm of the regular beat of
the eight hoofs in front of us! Cliff House was in view. Seal Rocks,
in their setting of foam, lay before us, and in forty minutes from the
time we left the hotel, despite policemen, miles of bad pavements, and
tramways, we drew up at the steps of Cliff House, nine miles from San
Francisco, and the trotters had not turned a hair. From the verandah
at the sea front of the hotel, we enjoyed for half an hour a spectacle
which is, as far as I know, unique. At the distance of 500 or 600 yards
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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