Highways and Byways in Cambridge and ElyConybeare, John William Edward
History
Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely
Conybeare, John William Edward
Cambridgeshire (England) -- Description and travel; Isle of Ely (England) -- Description and travel
Regent Street, after we leave Downing, will soon bring us again to the
Church of Our Lady, so that we have now completed our circuit of
Cambridge. There remain, however, a few outlying spots worth a visit
should time serve. Nearest and most picturesque of these is Coe Fen, a
long strip of common, lying along the eastern bank of the river,
before it enters on its course through the Backs. The best time to see
it is at sunset, and the best way to gain it is by following down the
narrow byway beside Little St. Mary's, and turning to the left at the
bottom. We shall then find ourselves on the Fen, beneath the old wall
of Peterhouse deerpark, a delicious, heavily-buttressed, mass of red
brick-work, leaning over and curved with age, patched and re-patched
all over with all kinds of fragments, giving colour effects that are
quite charming.[119] Passing beyond its shelter, and that of its
continuing hedge (which divides us from Peterhouse and other gardens),
we may take the first turn to the left, up a narrow (and often dirty)
byway, which will lead us past the Leys School, the great Wesleyan
educational outpost of Cambridge, into the Trumpington Road, where it
joins Lensfield Road at Hobson's Conduit. Or, instead of turning to
the left we may turn to the right, and, crossing the Cam by the iron
footbridge, make our way over "Sheep's Green," the Common east of the
river, to Newnham Mill and the Backs. Or we may hold straight on, by
the footpath that runs the whole length of the Fen, which will bring
us out on the Trumpington Road just by the first milestone, where that
road crosses "Vicar's Brook."
[Footnote 119: See p. 5.]
It is from this side that we notice how this is no ordinary milestone,
but a grand monolith twelve or fifteen feet in length, and feel that
it must have a story. And so indeed it has, for it is the very first
milestone ever set up in Britain since the days of the Roman dominion
here. In those days every great road in the country had its series of
milestones recording the distance from the central milestone in
London, which still exists, in its decay, as "London Stone." But after
the mighty organisation of the Roman Empire lost its hold upon the
land, roads went to ruin, and milestones were broken up or used for
Anglo-Saxon gate-posts. Not till 1729 was the idea of restoring the
system entertained; and it was a Cambridge College, Trinity Hall, that
first took it up, and carried it out on the road from Cambridge to
London. Hence it is that these milestones bear the Crescent of the
College shield. And for their inaugural milestone was chosen this
grand monolith, which was itself an old Roman milestone.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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