Highways and Byways in Cambridge and ElyConybeare, John William Edward
History
Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely
Conybeare, John William Edward
Cambridgeshire (England) -- Description and travel; Isle of Ely (England) -- Description and travel
But a yet more striking approach to the Island of Ely may be made by
taking at Earith the road through the toll-gate which leads northward
immediately alongside the great embankment of the New River, and lies
some few feet below the level of its waters. For three miles this
association continues; then road and river part company, and the
former drives straight across the fen to climb the western shore of
the island. The change of scenery when you reach that shore is
striking in its suddenness. You have been travelling for miles through
the bare, treeless, dead level of the fen, with its immense width of
view; then, almost in a moment, you find yourself ascending a steepish
hill through a tree-shaded hedge-bordered cutting which might be in
Kent or even Devonshire.
At the top of this brow you look down on the fen behind you and on
either hand, your southern horizon being bounded by the near uplands
of Haddenham, with the flat bay of North Fen between. And very shortly
you come to the undulating village street of Sutton, with its highest
point crowned by the truly glorious church. This church is all in one
style, Decorated, on the verge of developing into Perpendicular,
having been built by Barnet, Bishop of Ely 1366 to 1373. The splendid
tower is crowned by an octagonal steeple, and that again by a second,
richly pinnacled, and is a landmark for many miles along the valleys
of the Ouse and Cam.
From Sutton we reach Ely by way of Wentworth and Witchford. The former
name is supposed to be a corruption of Owensworth, and to commemorate
that the place was of old the property of St. Owen. The little church
has a Saxon porch, with twisted pillars, and contains a remarkable
carving of the same date, representing an ecclesiastic wearing the
pall of a Primate. His left hand supports an open book, while in his
right he holds, not a cross or pastoral staff, but something more
suggestive of an aspersory for holy water. The corbel in Ely Cathedral
depicting the burial of St. Etheldreda shows us a figure similarly
equipped.
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Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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