Highways and Byways in Cambridge and ElyConybeare, John William Edward
History
Highways and Byways in Cambridge and Ely
Conybeare, John William Edward
Cambridgeshire (England) -- Description and travel; Isle of Ely (England) -- Description and travel
Grassy hillocks rise between us and the cathedral; and we gain an
impression as of some great ship riding majestically over ocean
billows. The church, indeed, is actually about the size of a large
liner, and the green swells of the park are not unlike in magnitude to
those of the Atlantic. Turner's painting of Ely Minster gives this
same ship-like impression of the place, thus embodying the history of
this wondrous pile. It has in truth weathered many a tempest, has been
wrecked and built afresh, has sunk and been restored, and is preserved
for us still as a holy and classic House of God.
The first of the Abbey buildings that we come to on our walk is the
tithe barn with its tiled roof, one of the largest in England,
constructed in mediaeval days, with no architectural beauty, yet with a
dignity of its own. It still bears witness to a financial state of
affairs, when rent was paid in kind, far removed from that which now
exists, since the commuting of tithes for payment in cash.
Leaving this barn on our left, we find ourselves in front of a massive
gatehouse, known as the "Ely Porta" or "Walpole Gate." It was begun
about 1396, and finished under Prior William Walpole, whose name still
clings to it. This gatehouse has been used for various purposes, for
a chapel, for a prison, for a brewery. To-day it serves as the chief
schoolroom of the "King's School," which represents the famous Choir
School where Edward the Confessor was educated. His coat of arms, a
cross and five martlets, is carved accordingly on the northern
hood-moulding of the gateway, those of the See of Ely on the other
side. It was never finished according to the original design; the
money of the Abbey being needed for other matters, of which one was a
tedious lawsuit relating to the Bishop's jurisdiction.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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