Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
Lincoln's Inn, however, is less altered. The New Hall of the Inn,
built only in 1845, nevertheless wears a sober and respectable look of
antiquity; and the new buildings are already less garish. Perhaps, at
first, in contrasting the new houses of Lincoln's Inn with the old,
where they rise side by side, one is tempted for a moment to cry out
against the modern taste in variegated brick-work; till on closer
examination one finds it to be a faithful copy of the older style,
only not yet darkened by age! So true is it, as Millais has said, that
"Time is the greatest of the old Masters." And the smoke of London
ages buildings quickly; this is one of its advantages. The real
innovation in the newer style is in the windows; for, where narrow
lozenges pierced the wall, now are tall, imposing bay windows, a
wealth of glass before undreamed of. The great modern cry is ever,
"Let there be light!" But then, we, in our day, do not have to pay
window tax.
The fine Gatehouse of Lincoln's Inn, that opens upon Chancery Lane,
has a delightful look of mediævalism; it is in the Hampton Court
style, and was built in 1518 by Sir Thomas Lowell, whose arms it
bears, as well as the date of its erection. Here, tradition says, "Ben
Jonson, a poor bricklayer, was found working on this gate with a
_Horace_ in one hand and a trowel in the other, when some gentlemen,
pitying him, gave him money to leave 'so mean a calling' and pursue
his studies."
Here in Lincoln's Inn are again quiet, picturesque courts; sundials
with Latin mottoes; calm enclosures of quiet amidst the surrounding
racket. At No. 24, "Old Buildings," is a tablet recording the
residence here of John Thurloe, Cromwell's secretary. An interesting
story is told of these chambers. The Protector is said to have visited
his secretary here one day, and disclosed to him a plot for seizing
the young princes, sons of Charles I. The plans had been discussed,
when Thurloe's clerk was discovered, apparently asleep, in the room.
Cromwell was for killing him, but this Thurloe dissuaded him from
doing, and, passing a dagger repeatedly over his face, thought to
prove that he was really asleep. The clerk, however, had merely been
shamming, and he subsequently found means to warn the princes of their
danger. Such a dramatic story certainly deserves to be true!
Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, though perhaps hardly rural, is still the
largest and shadiest square in London. It had in old days a bad
reputation for thieves and footpads, for the pillory, and also, more
tragically, as a place of execution. Here the conspirators in Mary
Queen of Scots' cause were hanged and quartered; and here gallant Lord
William Russell died for alleged treason, "his whole behaviour a
triumph over death."
The tall substantial houses around Lincoln's-Inn-Fields bear a look of
bygone state, an ancient grandeur well described in _Bleak House_.
Here is an account of the mansion inhabited by the astute Mr.
Tulkinghorn, in this square:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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