Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
"Here, in a large house, formerly a house of state, lives
Mr. Tulkinghorn. It is let off in sets of chambers now; and
in those shrunken fragments of its greatness, lawyers lie
like maggots in nuts. But its roomy staircases, passages,
and antechambers still remain; and even its painted
ceilings, where Allegory, in Roman helmet and celestial
linen, sprawls among balustrades and pillars, flowers,
clouds, and big-legged boys, and makes the head ache--as
would seem to be Allegory's object always, more or less.
Here ... lives Mr. Tulkinghorn.... Like as he is to look at,
so is his apartment in the dusk of the afternoon. Rusty, out
of date, withdrawing from attention, able to afford it."
The house thus described by Dickens was that of his friend Forster,
and, no doubt, he knew it well. Very few private houses exist, I
imagine, in Lincoln's-Inn-Fields to-day: and poor "Allegory" is now
there for ever at a discount. The fine mansions, with their paved
forecourts and massive gate-posts, have had their day, and have now
ceased (for the larger world, that is) to be. Yet it is an imposing
square still, and, seen in the sunshine of a May morning, is
distinctly attractive.
Very attractive, too, is Staple Inn, so well known to Londoners by its
old gabled Holborn front. This, in some ways the most charming of all
the Inns, is kindly preserved to us by the altruism of the Prudential
Assurance Company, whose property it is, and who at considerable
expense have repaired and saved from destruction this historical "bit"
of Old London. The picturesque gables of Staple Inn, its well-known
lath-and-plaster front, would, indeed, be sadly missed if they
disappeared from the line of Holborn. Nothing so well gives the idea
of the London of the Tudors, of the early Stuarts, as this
time-honoured edifice. Staple Inn, though generally supposed to be
earlier, is really of the time of James I: and its crumbling and
insecure walls, during the recent (and still continuing) building
operations near it, have required much "underpinning."
Entering under the archway of Staple Inn, we find ourselves suddenly
in a quiet old court set about with plane trees, and in the middle a
rustic seat placed, in countrified fashion, round a tree trunk; the
old Hall of the Inn forming the background. It is a charming spot
enough, with a most collegiate and secluded air; an air so strange,
indeed, in this neighbourhood as to have struck many writers, among
others Nathaniel Hawthorne:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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