Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The best tombs of the Abbey are only free and open to inspection on
Mondays and Tuesdays within certain hours; on all other days, they are
locked up, and people are only "taken round" them at stated times and
under supervision. On Mondays and Tuesdays there is, mostly, a good
assembly of sightseers; and, whether one choses a free day, full of
people, or whether one rather elects to be taken round on a sixpenny
day in custody, in either case one inevitably loses much of the charm
and feeling of the beautiful old church and its associations. On free
days, boys have a tendency to clatter distractingly up and down the
wooden steps that lead to the Confessor's Chapel, with other
diversions natural to the juvenile mind; on sixpenny days, you go in
and out with the crowd in a depressing "queue," while each chapel in
turn is unlocked and its monuments explained in a sad monotone. No
other arrangement, no doubt, is possible; yet, who could penetrate to
the soul of the Abbey under such conditions as these? It is perhaps
not unnatural that the vergers, who have performed the office so
often, should feel a certain satiety in the process, and that they
should wish to hurry the visitor through the chapels as quickly and
perfunctorily as may be; and yet, how charming would it be to spend a
long afternoon here, in study or enjoyment, undisturbed! In an
unwashed and noisy crowd, a crowd which seems to imagine that the
Tombs of the Kings are a species of Waxworks, who can think, or enjoy,
or remember? Moreover, when one is, so to speak, "in custody," one
must always be very careful to do nothing which may draw down on one's
self the suspicion of the custodian. In this connexion one is tempted
to recall the story told of a certain too-conscientious verger in one
of our provincial cathedrals. A devout visitor knelt down at an
altar-tomb; an action for which the said verger promptly reprimanded
him. "I was only praying," murmured the visitor, rising abashed. "Oh,
that can't be allowed," said the verger; "we can't let people pray
about wherever they like; _that would never do_."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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