Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
In Westminster Abbey they are hardly so particular; and yet, something
of this same sense of restriction the reverent visitor to the ancient
edifice also experiences. His spirit recoils from locked entrance
gates and tours of perfunctory inspection, and yearns for but one hour
of the "bliss of solitude," to invoke, if not the shades of the mighty
dead, at least something of the feeling that clings round their
memorial chapels. It is this feeling that Froude has so well
described: "Between us and the old English," he says in an eloquent
passage, "there lies a gulf of mystery which the prose of the
historian will never adequately bridge. They cannot come to us, and
our imagination can but feebly penetrate to them. Only among the
aisles of the cathedral, only as we gaze upon their silent figures
sleeping on their tombs, some faint conceptions float before us of
what these men were when they were alive; and perhaps in the sound of
church bells, that peculiar creation of mediæval age, which falls upon
the ear like the echo of a vanished world."
And now for the other side of the picture. I was once, on a "sixpenny
day," in the north aisle of Henry VIIth's chapel, admiring the quaint
cradle-tomb of that "royal rosebud" of three days old,--Princess
Sophia,--and pondering over that strange curse of Stuarts and Tudors,
when up came a couple, 'Arry and 'Arriet, of the usual cockney
honey-mooning type. They were evidently "doing" the London monuments
in style, and eschewed free days. The bride seemed tired and somewhat
apathetic; she evidently had to be kept severely up to the mark.
"Funny little nipper," said the young man peeping into the cradle:
"It's a won'erful big child for three days old," said the bride, with
some faint show of interest; and, "my! how silly it _is_ dressed! only
fancy, a cap like that there for a byby!" Then they turned to Queen
Elizabeth's effigy: "I don't like the looks of 'er," said the lady,
with something between a shudder and a giggle: "I come over jes' now
so faint," she continued, her pink colour fading: "it's 'ardly' 'elthy
in 'ere with all these corpses, is it?.... Wax-works is much nicer;
they don't give yer the creeps so. Let's go and 'ave a 'bus ride, an'
give the old Johnny the slip. I think we've 'ad our sixpennorth." So
they went, but alas! they had left me their desecration.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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