Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
When a London suburb has once become crowded with houses, what was
once picturesque becomes speedily squalid and sordid; the pretty
village street soon changes to a murky alley, and the ivy-grown tavern
converts itself into a mere disreputable-looking public-house. Of this
sad fact, Miss Thackeray's pleasant lanes, running from Kensington to
Chelsea and Fulham, furnish at the present day abundant proof. The
charming village lanes that at the beginning of last century filled
Kensington and Chelsea,--the dairies such as that where pretty Emma
Penfold dispensed curds and whey,--the cottages with damask
rose-trees,--the tea-gardens, rural as now those on Kew Green,--what
is now their latter end? Their modern realisations--Sydney Street,
Smith Street, Manor Street--are not exactly attractive or savoury
byways. No, it requires palaces and big mansions to keep up the
"rus-in-urbe"; mere cottages cannot do it without degenerating into
drying-grounds, unspeakable back yards, or slums. But, if the old
beauty has gone from Kensington, another beauty, of a different kind,
awaits it. Of such beauty the imposing dome of the "Brompton Oratory,"
seen against a lurid sunset at the end of a vista in the Brompton
Road, is an effective instance. This church, so dramatically placed in
close proximity with the Anglican parish church, is a very striking
object in the landscape; especially striking, too, when the light
"that London takes the day to be," has softened and blended its more
salient architectural features into one dimly glorified mass.
If Kensington is somewhat addicted to "cliques" and to social
exclusiveness, it is, after all, only following out its ancient
traditions. For in older days it was always prim and conservative,
governed by its own laws.
"There was" (says Miss Thackeray) "a Kensington world ...
somewhat apart from the big uneasy world surging beyond the
turnpike--a world of neighbours bound together by the old
winding streets and narrow corners in a community of
venerable elm trees and traditions that are almost levelled
away. Mr. Awl, the bootmaker in High Street, exhibited
peculiar walking-shoes long after high heels and kid
brodekins had come into fashion in the metropolis. The last
time I was in his shop I saw a pair of the old-fashioned,
flat, sandalled shoes, directed to Miss Vieuxtemps, in
Palace Green. Tippets, poke-bonnets, even a sedan chair,
still existed among us long after they had been discarded by
more active minds."
It all suggests nothing so much as one of Mr. G. D. Leslie's pictures.
The poetic fancy of the writer of _Old Kensington_ is, indeed,
conceived in much the same pleasant minor key as the artist's--the
author of _School Revisited_ and kindred idylls,--both evoking visions
of girls in short waists, lank, frilled skirts, and sandals, amid cool
suburban walled gardens, grass plots, and fountains.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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