Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
"Church House," so vividly described by Miss Thackeray as Dolly
Vanborough's home, stood close to the modern Church Street. And close
to Church Street is Campden House, a modern restoration of the ancient
building of that name, which was burned down in 1862; the gateway of
the old mansion being now built up into the east wall of the garden.
Old Campden House dated from 1612, and was principally known as having
been the residence of Queen Anne's charming and precocious little son,
the Duke of Gloucester, the poor child who died at eleven, "from
excessive dancing on his birthday," the last hope of the race dying
out with him. Campden House had been taken for the boy, so that he
might be near his aunt, Queen Mary, who was very fond of him, and had
him carried daily in infancy to see her at Kensington Palace.
Kensington Square, with its comfortable-looking houses of sober red
brick, and windows with white painted casements, has a delightfully
old-world aspect. Behind the houses are pleasant gardens, as yet--but
for how long?--left untouched by the tide of progress. Thackeray, as
well as his daughter, must have known and loved this square well; for
here he imagined Lady Castlewood, Beatrix, and Harry Esmond to dwell.
[Illustration: _Earl's Court._]
Earl's Court,--now mainly remarkable for the near neighbourhood of
"Olympia,"--the "Great Wheel,"--and an endless colony of railway
lines,--was, some fifty years ago, still "a quaint old row of houses,
their lattices stuffed with spring flowers, facing a deep cool pond by
the roadside," and embowered in orchards. Spots of welcome greenery
there still are in the wide area of West and South Kensington; there
is a big cemetery to be buried in, and the oval enclosure called "the
Boltons" is a pleasant place to live in. But, on the whole, the
purlieus of Kensington are depressing. While West Kensington is
mainly degraded "Queen Anne," interspersed with railways,--South
Kensington has one very general distinguishing mark. It is nearly
always stuccoed, and usually also porticoed. Its larger streets, in
sun or shine, bear a gloomy likeness to an array of family vaults,
awaiting their occupants. The early nineteenth century had, in truth,
much to answer for in the way of bricks, mortar, and stucco,--but
principally stucco! Occasionally there is some faint relief to the
prevailing mode, and here and there some of the smaller roads are
brightened in spring by a few acacias and hawthorns; but in the larger
streets there is usually the same saddening uniformity, and, when once
you have left the vicinity of Kensington Square, you find nothing in
quite the same style until you reach Chelsea and Cheyne Walk.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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