Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
All this quarter of London is a vast hive of industry. The stranger
should walk along the busy thoroughfare of Upper and Lower Thames
Street all the way from the Tower to St. Paul's; tall, blackened,
ever-devouring warehouses line the street, which is a very inferno of
bustle and labour. Though the street is muddy and noisy, and its
perambulation may not impossibly render the pedestrian more than a
little cross, he will, at any rate, gain from it some insight into
London life. Mr. Hare describes the scene well:
"Thames Street," he says, "is the very centre of turmoil.
From the huge warehouses along the sides, with their
chasm-like windows and the enormous cranes which are so
great a feature of this part of the City, the rattling of
the chains and the creaking of the cords, by which enormous
packages are constantly ascending and descending, mingle
with uproar from the roadway beneath. Here the hugest
waggons, drawn by Titanic dray horses, and attended by
waggoners in smock-frocks, are always lading or discharging
their enormous burthens of boxes, barrels, crates, timber,
iron, or cork."
But, though a visit to Billingsgate is only faintly suggested, and the
delights of the great central meat-market of Smithfield are, it is
fair to say, only capable of thorough appreciation by farmers and
connoisseurs, every visitor to London ought to be enjoined to go and
see Covent Garden Market, and preferably in the early hours of the
spring morning, the time of its highest activity. Not only interesting
at the present day as a special focus of London life, Covent Garden
has, also, the classic charm of history. For as early as the
thirteenth century this was the "convent garden" of Westminster,
supplying its monks with fruit and vegetables. That the course of
centuries and the habit of cockneys has dropped the sacred "n," and
changed the name into "Covent Garden" is easily understood. Covent
Garden is still faithful to its fruit and vegetables, though these,
alas! are no longer to be seen _growing_ there, but are transported
thither from the rich gardens of England, as well as from colonies and
nations overseas. Here, within this small enclosure, can be got, it is
said, all that skill can grow, care can transport, and money can buy.
Here can be obtained, at any time, and at short notice, the roses of a
Heliodorus, or the orchids of a Vanderbilt; together with priceless
fruits in mid-winter, new vegetables in February frosts, and tropical
produce all the year round. The middle avenue of Covent Garden is
expensive, but it can produce anything wished for in the fruit and
flower line. Riches in such places are as the magic wand of an
Aladdin. The central avenue of the market is refined and polite;
outside its limits, however, the manners of the locality are original
and peculiar, a kind of "law unto themselves." The Covent Garden
porters and market-women are rough diamonds; the men, especially, full
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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