Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The South Kensington Museum, now officially, by order of the late
Queen, termed "the Victoria and Albert Museum," is well known to all
dwellers in, and visitors to, London. The large and wonderful
collections that it contains have been for many years so overcrowded
and so irregularly arranged, as to lose half their attraction. For
long it existed partly in shanties and temporary buildings, and a
hideous iron structure, nicknamed the "Brompton Boilers," was for long
the disgrace of a rich and a beauty-loving nation. All these have at
length been swept away; the terribly inadequate main entrance (in the
Brompton Road) is being done away with, and a new façade is rising,
which will soon effect great changes and improvements. Mr. Ruskin, who
was always a victim of moods, was apparently in his day made very
cross by the general muddle, and expressed his feelings on the subject
in the following burst of pathetic eloquence:
"At South Kensington" (he says), "where I lost myself in a
Cretan labyrinth of military ironmongery, advertisements of
spring blinds, model fish-farming, and plaster bathing
nymphs with a year's smut on the noses of them; and had to
put myself in charge of a policeman to get out again."
Indeed, in its vast size, its involved construction, and its
encyclopædic scope, the South Kensington Museum much resembles a
maze, and, once inside it, it is difficult indeed to know the points
of the compass. Yet, everything can be seen here, if only you know
where to look for it. It is, itself, a "General Exhibition" on no mean
scale. And here is more than ever exemplified the great truth, that
the most beautiful objects lose in effect in proportion to the
unsuitableness of their immediate surroundings. Even the model of the
Pisan pulpit, crowded as it is among so many incongruous objects,
seems here a sort of glorified stove-pipe, while the carved front of
Sir Paul Pindar's old house almost suggests a magnified dolls'-house
awaiting sale, and plaster casts jostle on all sides with the valuable
treasures of antiquity. Here again are the groups of feminine students
with their guides, and also many isolated toilers, "working up" some
special branch of knowledge in the different sections, such as
Ivories, Porcelain, Lace, Musical Instruments, or Italian woodwork.
(The students are here, I may add, a trifle better dressed than those
at the British Museum; they are also, on an average, a thought
cleaner, and their hair has, perhaps, a tendency to be neater.) The
"omnium-gatherum," as it has been called, of South Kensington, should,
like any other Exhibition, be taken piecemeal, and on the first visit
the stranger should merely try, if possible, to see the historic
Raphael cartoons, and those most interesting pictures of the British
School that form the famous "Sheepshanks" collection.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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