Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
"Our houses shape themselves palpably on our inner and outer
natures. See a householder breaking up and you will be sure
of it. There is a shellfish which builds all manner of
smaller shell into the walls of its own. A house is never a
home until we have crusted it with the spoils of a hundred
lives besides those of our own past. See what these are and
you can tell what the occupant is."--_Oliver Wendell
Holmes._
[Illustration: _At the Club._]
The most curious thing about London houses, and especially
characteristic of our national reserve, is the fact that we can, as a
rule, tell nothing at all about them until we get inside the sacred
enclosure. A Londoner's house is the shell that hides him from the
world; our houses are, to the foreigner, as enigmatic and as exclusive
as we ourselves. But, once past the magic gateway, once past the
Cerberus at the door, you come upon an interior often unguessed and
undreamed of. The contrast is striking. What can be more dully
monotonous, more unromantic, than the row of brick and stucco
house-fronts that face the average large square or street? Yet it is
ten to one that, inside, hardly one of these will exactly resemble the
other, either in taste, architecture, or even general plan. Even the
"long unlovely street" of Tennyson's disapproval may, and does, often
hide unsuspected treasures. Who, for instance, would suspect the
existence of the Greek bas-reliefs, the painted ceilings, the
colonnades and statues in some of the old Bloomsbury houses? Who would
imagine the curious "Soane Museum" in the quiet house in Lincoln's Inn
Fields? the dignified Georgian spaciousness in the old mansions of
Bedford Square? the gorgeous interior of the sombre houses of Bruton
Street? the picture-galleries of Piccadilly and Mayfair? or the
Eastern magnificence and opulence of some of the Park Lane mansions?
For in London, as a rule, there are but few external signs to denote
wealth. Even in our riches, we do not wear our heart on our sleeve.
From a survey of these, as a rule, unimposing façades, we can imagine
the uninitiated foreigner wondering where in the world the people of
the richest city in the universe live. He may, even if intelligent,
wander at large through London, and notice nothing of beauty, or even
of interest. Was it not Madame de Staël who, lodged as she was in
uninspiring Argyll Street, said unkindly, but not, perhaps, without
some reason, with regard to her immediate surroundings that "London
was a province in brick"? But London houses have other and deeper
associations than those of mere riches; the association with mighty
spirits of the past, poets dead and gone, great men of action, kings,
warriors, statesmen; the infinite multitude of those who, "being dead,
yet live." And in some cases, even though the houses themselves have
vanished, yet the places where they stood are still sacred.
Thus,--though it is perhaps difficult to define the exact boundaries
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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