Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
It has been objected that Cleopatra's needle ought to have been placed
somewhere else; for instance, in the centre of the Tilt Yard, opposite
the Horse Guards. But it is, as I said, typical of Londoners to find
fault with their monuments; and it is difficult to agree with the
writer who described it as in its present position "adorning nothing,
emphasising nothing, and by nothing emphasised." M. Gabriel Mourey,
for instance, who, though a Frenchman, is also a lover of London,
brings it very charmingly into his "impression" of the scene from
Charing-Cross Bridge:
"I go every morning to Charing-Cross Bridge, to gaze on the
'magical effects' produced by fog and mist on the Thames.
The buildings on the shores have vanished; there, where
recently seethed an enormous conglomeration of roofs,
chimneys, the perpetual encroachment of interminable
façades, all that insentient life of stones,--heaped to
lodge human toil, suffering, happiness,--seems to be now
only a desert of far-reaching waters. The river has
immeasurably widened, has extended its shores to the
infinite. Such immensity is terrible ... the atmosphere is
heavy; there is a conscious weight around, above, a weight
that presses down, penetrates into ears and mouth, seems
even to hang about the hair. We might, indeed, be existing
in a kind of nothingness, except for the perpetual passage
of trains--trains that shake the floor of the bridge, and
jar our whole being with metallic vibrations.... The wooden
sheds of the landing-stage, backed by the stone steps and
parapet,--with, further on, the thin spire of Cleopatra's
Needle, an unimagined network of lines,--appear suddenly out
of nothingness; it might be a fairy city rising all at once;
here are revealed the gigantic buildings of the Savoy Hotel,
and yonder, farther on, those of Somerset House, as the fog
gradually lifts; the whole effect is suggestive of a
negative under the chemical action of the developer. There
is, however, no distinctness; the negative is a fogged one;
outlines are only distinguished with difficulty; and
everything, in this strange and sad monochrome, seems to
acquire a vast and altogether fantastic size. The sky,
however, moves; thick, ragged clouds unravel themselves, in
colour a dirty yellow fringed with white; they might well be
great folds of torn curtains entangled in each other,
curtains of dingy wadding, thickly lined, and edged with
faint gold. But the light is too feeble to reflect itself,
and the water below continues to flow dully, as though
weighed down with the burden of that heavy sky; the
pleasure-steamers, indeed, seem to cleave it with painful
toil, to force a pathway, soon again closed; a pathway of
which scarcely a trace remains, only a slow, sluggish
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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