Highways and Byways in LondonCook, Emily Constance Baird
History
Highways and Byways in London
Cook, Emily Constance Baird
London (England) -- Description and travel
The Tower Bridge, as compared with other great engineering works of
the kind, labours under the disadvantage of not being seen properly
from anywhere as a whole, taking in, that is, both abutment towers
with their pendant suspension chains, which add so much to the general
effect. Nevertheless, even viewed from close by, it is very telling,
and dwarfs immeasurably any other building near it; see, for instance,
how the little Tower of London, that ancient and most historic
fortress, loses its size from its close juxtaposition to those
supporting towers! The "bascules," or drawbridges, are worked by
hydraulic power, and it is a curious and interesting sight to see them
raised to allow tall vessels to pass. Below the Tower Bridge, the
broad river seems to extend in a sea of masts, the city to become a
world of wharves and docks. To quote, once more, an "impression" of M.
Gabriel Mourey:
"Once past the London Tower Bridge, and its two enormous
towers, which rise like a triumphal arch with an air of calm
victory at the entrance to the great metropolis, the seaport
aspect of London becomes very apparent. The immense traffic
on the river is evident from the constant passage of
steamers, no less than by their frequent calls at the
wharves whose blackened walls, deep in water, receive the
riches of the entire world. A whole people toil at the
unloading of the enormous ships; swarming on the barges,
dark figures, dimly outlined, moving rhythmically, fill in
and give life to the picture. In the far distance, behind
the interminable lines of sheds and warehouses, masts bound
the horizon, masts like a bare forest in winter, finely
branched, exaggerated, aerial trees grown in all the
climates of the globe. Steam-tugs whistle, pant, and hurry;
ships with great red sails descend the river towards the
sea. An enormous steamer advances majestically; she seems as
tall as a five-storied house and her masts are lost in the
mist. The river suddenly widens, the thick smoke of the
atmosphere almost prevents one from seeing the other side;
it might almost be an immense lake. Rain, steam, and
speed;--Turner's chef d'oeuvre evoked before my eyes. The
ever-changing sky is a continual wonder. A while ago the
sun, like a disc of melting cream, disappeared in yellowish
mists, scattering reflections like dirty snow. Now, through
a clearing, he appears like the altar-glory of a Jesuit
church; raining waves of golden light; the surrounding
cloud-flocks are in a moment tinged with brilliance. And
again, he is suddenly eclipsed; all returns to dulness and
gloom: it might be the sad dawn of a rainy day."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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