Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
The audience chamber was a mere roofed shed of neat bamboo wattle,
about twenty feet long: two Bhoteeas in scarlet jackets, and with bows
in their hands, stood on each side of the door, and our own chairs were
carried before us for our accommodation. Within was a square wicker
throne, six feet high, covered with purple silk, brocaded with dragons
in white and gold, and overhung by a canopy of tattered blue silk, with
which material part of the walls also was covered. An oblong box
(containing papers) with gilded dragons on it, was placed on the stage
or throne, and behind it was perched cross-legged, an odd, black,
insignificant looking old man, with twinkling upturned eyes: he was
swathed in yellow silk, and wore on his head a pink silk hat with a
flat broad crown, from all sides of which hung floss silk. This was the
Rajah, a genuine Tibetan, about seventy years old. On some steps close
by, and ranged down the apartment, were his relations, all in brocaded
silk robes reaching from the throat to the ground, and girded about the
waist; and wearing caps similar to that of the Rajah. Kajees,
counsellors, and shaven mitred Lamas were there, to the number of
twenty, all planted with their backs to the wall, mute and motionless
as statues. A few spectators were huddled together at the lower end of
the room, and a monk waved about an incense pot containing burning
juniper and other odoriferous plants. Altogether the scene was solemn
and impressive: as Campbell well expressed it, the genius of Lamaism
reigned supreme.
We saluted, but received no complimentary return; our chairs were then
placed, and we seated ourselves, when the Dewan came in, clad in a
superb purple silk robe, worked with circular gold figures, and
formally presented us. The Dewan then stood; and as the Rajah did not
understand Hindoostanee, our conversation was carried on through the
medium of a little bare-headed rosy-cheeked Lama, named “Tchebu,” clad
in a scarlet gown, who acted as interpreter. The conversation was short
and constrained: Tchebu was known as a devoted servant of the Rajah and
of the heir apparent; and in common with all the Lamas he hates the
Dewan, and desires a friendly intercourse between Sikkim and Dorjiling.
He is, further, the only servant of the Rajah capable of conversing
both in Hindoo and Tibetan, and the uneasy distrustful look of the
Dewan, who understands the latter language only, was very evident. He
was as anxious to hurry over the interview, as Dr. Campbell and Tchebu
were to protract it; it was clear, therefore, that nothing satisfactory
could be done under such auspices.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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