Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
As a signal for departure white silk scarfs were thrown over our
shoulders, according to the established custom in Tibet, Sikkim, and
Bhotan; and presents were made to us of China silks, bricks of tea,
woollen cloths, yaks, ponies, and salt, with worked silk purses and
fans for Mrs. Campbell; after which we left. The whole scene was novel
and very curious. We had had no previous idea of the extreme poverty of
the Rajah, of his utter ignorance of the usages of Oriental life, and
of his not having anyone near to instruct him. The neglect of our
salutation, and the conversion of our presents into tribute, did not
arise from any ill-will: it was owing to the craft of the Dewan in
taking advantage of the Rajah’s ignorance of his own position and of
good manners. Miserably poor, without any retinue, taking no interest
in what passes in his own kingdom, subsisting on the plainest and
coarsest food, passing his time in effectually abstracting his mind
from the consideration of earthly things, and wrapt in contemplation,
the Sikkim Rajah has arrived at great sanctity, and is all but prepared
for that absorption into the essence of Boodh, which is the end and aim
of all good Boodhists. The mute conduct of his Court, who looked like
attendants at an inquisition, and the profound veneration expressed in
every word and gesture of those who did move and speak, recalled a
Pekin reception. His attendants treated him as a being of a very
different nature from themselves; and well might they do so, since they
believe that he will never die, but retire from the world only to
re-appear under some equally sainted form.
Though productive of no immediate good, our interview had a very
favourable effect on the Lamas and people, who had long wished it; and
the congratulations we received thereon during the remainder of our
stay in Sikkim were many and sincere. The Lamas we found universally in
high spirits; they having just effected the marriage of the heir
apparent, himself a Lama, said to possess much ability and prudence,
and hence being very obnoxious to the Dewan, who vehemently opposed the
marriage. As, however, the minister had established his influence over
the youngest, and estranged the Rajah from his eldest son, and was
moreover in a fair way for ruling Sikkim himself, the Church rose in a
body, procured a dispensation from Lhassa for the marriage of a priest,
and thus hoped to undermine the influence of the violent and greedy
stranger.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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