Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
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Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
This being a festival day, when the natives were bringing offerings to
the altar, we also visited the old temple, a small wooden building.
Besides more substantial offerings, there were little cones of rice
with a round wafer of butter at the top, ranged on the altar in
order.[100] Six Lamas were at prayer, psalms, and contemplation,
sitting cross-legged on two small benches that ran down the building:
one was reading, with his hand and fore-finger elevated, whilst the
others listened; anon they all sang hymns, repeated sacred or silly
precepts to the bystanders, or joined in a chorus with boys, who struck
brass cymbals, and blew straight copper trumpets six feet long, and
conch-shells mounted with broad silver wings, elegantly carved with
dragons. There were besides manis, or praying-cylinders, drums, gongs,
books, and trumpets made of human thigh-bones, plain or mounted in
silver.
[100] The worshippers, on entering, walk straight up to the altar, and
before, or after, having deposited their gifts, they lift both hands
to the forehead, fall on their knees, and touch the ground three times
with both head and hands, raising the body a little between each
prostration. They then advance to the head Lama, kotow similarly to
him, and he blesses them, laying both hands on their heads and
repeating a short formula. Sometimes the dorje is used in blessing, as
the cross is in Europe, and when a mass of people request a
benediction, the Lama pronounces it from the door of the temple with
outstretched arms, the people all being prostrate, with their
foreheads touching the ground.
Throughout Sikkim, we were roused each morning at daybreak by this wild
music, the convents being so numerous that we were always within
hearing of it. To me it was always deeply impressive, sounding so
foreign, and awakening me so effectually to the strangeness of the wild
land in which I was wandering, and of the many new and striking objects
it contained. After sleep, too, during which the mind has either been
at rest, or carried away to more familiar subjects, the feelings of
loneliness and sometimes even of despondency, conjured up, by this
solemn music, were often almost oppressive.
Ascending from Neongong, we reached that pass from the Teesta to the
Great Rungeet, which I had crossed on the 22nd; and this time we had a
splendid view, down both the valleys, of the rivers, and the many spars
from the ridge communicating between Tendong and Mainom, with many
scattered villages and patches of cultivation. Near the top I found a
plant of “Praong,” (a small bamboo), in full seed; this sends up many
flowering branches from the root, and but few leaf-bearing ones; and
after maturing its seed, and giving off suckers from the root, the
parent plant dies. The fruit is a dark, long grain, like rice; it is
boiled and made into cakes, or into beer, like Murwa.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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