Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.Hooker, Joseph Dalton
History
Himalayan Journals — Complete: Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc.
Hooker, Joseph Dalton
Himalaya Mountains -- Description and travel; Natural history -- Himalaya Mountains
Looking west from the summit, no fewer than ten monastic establishments
with their temples, villages and cultivation, were at once visible, in
the valley of the Great Rungeet, and in those of its tributaries;
namely, Changachelling, Raklang, Dholi, Molli, Catsuperri, Dhoobdi,
Sunnook, Powhungri, Pemiongchi and Tassiding, all of considerable size,
and more or less remarkable in their sites, being perched on spurs or
peaks at elevations varying from 3000 to 7000 feet, and commanding
splendid prospects.
We encamped at Lingcham, where I had halted on the 21st, and the
weather being fine, I took bearings of all the convents and mountains
around. There is much cultivation here, and many comparatively rich
villages, all occupying flat-shouldered spurs from Mainom. The houses
are large, and the yards are full of animals familiar to the eye but
not to the ear. The cows of Sikkim, though generally resembling the
English in stature, form, and colour, have humps, and grunt rather than
low; and the cocks wake the morning with a prolonged howling screech,
instead of the shrill crow of chanticleer.
Hence we descended north-west to the Great Rungeet, opposite Tassiding;
which is one of the oldest monastic establishments in Sikkim, and one
we were very anxious to visit. The descent lay through a forest of
tropical trees, where small palms, vines, peppers, _Pandanus,_ wild
plantain, and _Pothos,_ were interlaced in an impenetrable jungle, and
air-plants clothed the trees.
[Illustration: Implements used in Boodhist temples]
Chapter XIV
Tassiding, view of and from—Funereal cypress—Camp at Sunnook—Hot
vapours—Lama’s house—Temples, decorations, altars, idols, general
effect—Chaits—Date of erection—Plundered by Ghorkas—Cross Ratong—Ascend
to Pemiongchi—Relation of river-beds to strike of rocks—Slopes of
ravines—Pemiongchi, view of—Vegetation—Elevation—Temple, decorations,
etc.—Former capital of Sikkim—History of Sikkim—Nightingales—Campbell
departs—Tchonpong—Edgeworthia—Cross Rungbee and Ratong—Hoar-frost on
plantains—Yoksun—Walnuts—View—Funereal cypresses—Doobdi—Gigantic
cypresses—Temples—Snow-fall—Sikkim, etc.—Toys.
Tassiding hill is the steep conical termination of a long spur from a
pine-clad shoulder of Kinchinjunga, called Powhungri: it divides the
Great Rungeet from its main feeder, the Ratong, which rises from the
south face of Kinchin. We crossed the former by a bridge formed of two
bamboo stems, slung by canes from two parallel arches of stout branches
lashed together.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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